Sykeside Camping Park - 22 to 26 March 12

What a lovely morning it is this morning; bright, pale blue sky, everything looking fresh after yesterday’s rain – the perfect morning for, well, lots of things but in my case perfect for planting another row of early potatoes. I dug a trench at the weekend, filled it with farmyard manure and left it open to soak up the rain. I can bury the spuds now.

Yesterday’s rain caused me to postpone a walk though. The planned wander with a friend along the River Great Ouse through Bedford followed by a pub lunch, wasn’t quite so appealing in the damp. You win some you lose some. Rather like my walk last year along The Leeds to Liverpool Canal when it didn’t seem to stop raining.

The weather was a feature of my stay in the Lakes – as it usually is but this time I struck lucky. It felt like August should do but without the crowds. Not a pretty sight but shorts were the order of the day for me, during the day.

I was based at Sykeside Campsite for the second part of the week. It is in a rather special place - Dove Valley, which is overlooked by hills and crags shouting out to be climbed. At this time of the year, out of the tourist season, it was quite a special campsite too because it was almost empty. It’s not that I am anti or unsociable it’s just that I can imagine it not being such a great place when fully occupied; the pitches are closer together than I’ve encountered on this type of site elsewhere, and at a location where there are over 60 pitches for campervans and tents, and an adjacent area for caravans, the Gents only has four “seats”!

Mine was a simple daily routine; basically - up early, a circular walk, packed lunch at the summit of something, nap, pub, bed.

Rounding off the account of the week has become a bit of a mind drag. It should have been a straightforward enough job but with photos to transfer from camera and phone, wanting to make maps into pictures and transfer them from a netbook to pc, and to be in the right frame of mind to write, all contrived to make it a seem a bit of a chore, each day therefore it was left till the next. Excuses, excuses. Or, perhaps I should just not get out more.

So without further ado, and with only the one image (of the campsite I shared with a few quiet humans and a small flock of sheep), I’m taking the easy route. I’ve got spuds to plant so I’ll publish and be damned. Kirk out.

Castlerigg Stone Circle - 21 March 12

I guess that most people will have heard of Stonehenge but I reckon that far less (or should that be fewer) know of Castlerigg Stone Circle. I checked it out today after noticing information about it last year. First thing this morning I had it all to myself. Fascinating stuff. Mind you, not a great deal is really known about the circle. One of life’s mysteries, like: is it only the labels that are made in China? And, how come most people never tire of having the exact same breakfast every day, but would object to eating the same set meal daily at other meal times? Just a thought.

In contemplative mood I wandered toward and over Walla Crag, down to Derwent Water and back into Keswick.

The sun shone this afternoon. Deckchairs were dusted off and sat on outside caravans and campervans. People chatted. Dogs stretched out. And I, unsociably, closed the curtains and had a nap. That set me up nicely for 2.5 pints in the Dog and Gun this early evening in good company. The place is regularly packed. What a great pub.

Tomorrow, Thursday, I head off to the campsite at Hartsop. My endeavours will be slightly more adventurous. I say again, slightly! Regrettably, sort of, communications will not be as good over there so I’ll not be blogging again until after I return home – Tuesday of next week.

In the meantime, here’s my theme song (pinched by a certain car maker) to power me up the fells. Pump up the volume ...

Latrigg - 20 March 12

Latrigg is Keswick’s very own hill. Its close proximity makes it an imposing presence yet in reality it is only a very modest lump; rising to 1230 feet it is little more than a third of its giant neighbour Skiddaw.

I have walked to the summit of Latrigg before but that didn’t prevent me from doing so again today. The touristy six mile circuit provides outstanding views in clear weather, which there was today, and its a fine way to spend a morning.

The River Greta flows along Latrigg’s southern base through a picturesque wooded gorge. It inspired William Wordsworth – “To the River Greta, near Keswick”

“Greta, what fearful listening! when huge stones,

Rumble along thy bed, block after block:

Or whirling with related shock,

Combat, while darkness aggravates the groans ...”

He's not just daffodills yer know!

My afternoon was spent walking the shops of Keswick – walking gear everywhere. Ooohh! [nice shivers]. The green and black new look of the Osprey Exos (rucksack) seductive; the latest Memory Map device (3800) improved and appealing; Paramo, Montane - new colours, but I am in denial, my wallet remains in my pocket - until I arrive the Dog & Duck, the beer, refreshing.

Keswick - 19 Mar 12

The idea, or basic plan, was, to set off early from Leek, spend a couple of hours with sister and brother-in-law, leave Holly and continue to Keswick, plug in the Grampervan, then, after a swift pint in town stroll toward Latrigg and back before it got dark. You’re probably ahead of me; yes, the plan came unstuck in town – in the Dog & Gun actually where they stock a delicious golden bitter, Thirst Blossom which is brewed here at the Keswick Brewing Company. And long may they do so.

I wasn’t much use for anything after that but a good sleep which I attended to fairly early and have paid the price by being wide awake since 03:15 hours.

At this campsite, those in tents can pitch up-close to Derwent Water and are rewarded with fantastic views as you can see from the image above. It’s £9.30 a night for me here although added to that, as I forgot to mention yesterday, is the annual club subscription, the amount of which I have also forgotten. It’s an age thing.

A bit of walking today and, well, I’ll just see how it goes.

Leek, Staffordshire - 18 Mar 12

It's about 260 miles from my house in Bedfordshire to the place in south Cumbria where I visit family and drop off my dog. Normally, it's a five hour journey. The drive is a bit of a drag though even with a couple of breaks along the way.

So, to make it easier, and because I wanted to check out a Peak District campsite, today I've travelled as far as Leek (which is about half way to Cumbria) where I'm spending the night at the Camping & Caravan Club's site.

The campsite is tidy and peacefull. It's a bit muddy in places but the price is right; I'm in my campervan for the night so it's £7.95 for a hard surfaced pitch, with hook-up to a 16 Amp electric supply, and there's access to a clean ablutions block with hot showers etc. There's no pub handy but I'm carrying everything that I need - including the kitchen sink and hob.

Keswick from tomorrow till Thursday, and then south-east to Hartsop where I'll be based until Monday. Someone else to do the cooking from tomorrow (and pull pints). Luxury!

It's only me

Ladybirds were promenading around the mint patch in my garden yesterday, the warm weather tempting them out of hibernation. “Who knows” I wondered, “do they have sweet dreams as we do, and thoughts of what they’ll get up to when they’re active again?” Juicy aphids and other ladybirds are all that occupy their minds I’d guess.



It may have seemed that I have been hibernating too. Not so, just busy. Regrettably, I cannot claim to have walked far, restricted by duties at home and a lovely dog that, in her dotage, struggles after half a mile and so prefers just a short stroll, meeting and sniffing.

If all goes well I'll get time off next week though; Holly goes to a rest home (my sister’s abode) and I have a week to myself to amble around the Lake District. I haven’t decided where exactly yet but something casual is required, sufficient to blow away (wash more likely) the cobwebs, and oil my innards. This will also be pre-preparation for the only other item on my walking calendar at the moment - The West Highland Way in late May.

In the meantime, and as usual, it’s always good to read others’ blogs, for which I thank the many, including Dawn and Al because I particularly like to follow a daily, well-written and interesting LEJOG blog.

Leeds and Liverpool Canal Path - After

It seems crazy to me that so many Tourist Information Centres (TIC) have closed down – which they have if you hadn’t noticed. I rarely reserve accommodation, preferring the benefit of the freedom to choose, when and where to stay overnight, on arrival. Letting the TIC’s accommodation booking service do their best at the end of my walking day has balanced my luck and has been worthwhile for all concerned; I’m shown room availability matched against personal requirements, the TIC gets a fee (10% of the room tariff) and the inn, a last minute booking (less 10% of tariff). As a last minute booking there’s usually a discount too. TICs are a wealth of local information. So, for me, on The Leeds and Liverpool Canal Towpath walk, TICs were sorely missed. And will be in the future too. RIP TIC.

Finding accommodation was critical on this walk because I wasn’t carrying a tent, sleeping bag, food and cooker. It did feel odd but marvellously light; my pack was a very comfortable 15lbs or so. Prize winning item was the Golite Dome Umbrella. Lightweight (215g), unbelievably strong (bendy) and in strong wind/driving rain it feels indestructible. A backpacker with an umbrella might seem out of place (Hiram Holiday with a rucksack) but it does the business, like the TICs used to.

Would I walk a towpath again? Yes. With a bit more research beforehand – I over relied on chance, even shorter distances perhaps giving time to visit local attractions, and a bed booked in advance as well next time round.

Leeds and Liverpool Canal Walk - Day 6

Blackburn - Chorley (12 miles)

My target today was Bridge 76A. Although just beyond the turn-off point from the canal into Chorley, 76A is special. Apart from it being the likely end of my canal walk, the bridge and I share a name, it being The Cowling Bridge. Something else we shared on the day too - we were both, errr - clean, through to the skin/metal, washed by the constant rain.

It's a twenty minute walk from the canal into Chorley town centre. A decent town centre - modern, with a covered market, an interesting mix of shops, pubs, restaurants, etc, and a Booths supermarket - a quality store in my opinion and a bonus point for Chorley. Things were on the up after the disappointments of Burnley and Blackburn.

It got better though. My B&B for the night, a 10 minute walk from the town centre, is totally excellent. All it says on http://www.inglewoodboutiquebandb.co.uk and more. Plus it is within 200 yards of a great restaurant http://www.new-season.co.uk which has a pub either side of it. Now THIS is what I'm talking about.

I have one scheduled walking day remaining but I'm finishing here - on a high. Wigan became my expected last (canal) port of call (although never my intention, two more days at my pace and I would have reached Liverpool). The relentless rain is taking the fun out of this stroll though.

Luckily for me, Chorley has a direct rail service to south Cumbria where I left my dog and van. I'll blog again on Sunday. I've whinged a bit here so an apology may be in order, plus, I'd like to mention one most excellent item of kit that I carried.

Image: The Cowling Bridge, Chorley.

Leeds and Liverpool Canal Path - Day 5

Burnley - Blackburn (17 miles)

It's not good when I think, "Crumbs, is it only day 4!". So you may already suspect that it hasn't been a cheery day for me. The truth is, that today's walk was a bit of a trudge - head down in the rain with few people out and about.

In wet weather I share the towpath with joggers isolated in their Ipod worlds and the odd (one or two odd, not odd odd) angler, who mostly resolutely stare at the canal, refusing to catch my eye as I glide past, considerately, not wishing to frighten off the fish. "Is it 'cos Ize a backpacker?" I wonder. Or is it their fear perhaps that if they look up to say "Ow do?", (or preferbly a greeting with the letter "u" in it - I like the Lancashire accent) the waiting fish will seize the moment, nick the bait and leg it (or should that be fin it?).

I just checked that; swung head sideways and upward, saying "Ow do?" with the head returning to face make-believe water before completing the word "do". Takes less than a second I reckon. It's just possible to carry out the same exercise but swivelling the eyes, straining at the sockets, to keep watching the water. Hurts a bit though. Looks weird too.

Listening to Blackburn Cathedral bells (as I circle the building, searching but failing to find a good spot to take a photo) lifts my spirits for a while but they sink again slightly when wandering around another familiar-looking town centre, all mall and no soul (searching and failing to find a good pub or restaurant).

What chance the next two days - Chorley then Wigan. I can deal with the rain so fingers crossed for a friendly pint, a hearty meal and quality accommodation.

Image: Entrance, Blackburn Cathedral.

Leeds & Liverpool Canal Path - Day 4

(Near) Barnoldswick - Burnley (9 canal miles)

A reluctant start this morning. Did I really want to watch the England v France Rugby World Cup game or was I looking for a way to delay the inevitable - setting off on a wet, miserable looking morning. After 10 minutes of play, England's prospects didn't look promising to me. I deserted them, creeping away, taking my chances with the weather.

A short walk down the A56, then across some fields and I was back on the towpath. Only for a mile though, as far as the Foulridge Tunnel. It's almost a mile long (1640 yards) but without a towpath so I took to the road, though Foulridge, skirting a reservoir, returning to the canal around Barrowford Locks.

I was at the summit of the canal - 495 feet (18.2m) above mean sea-level. With Lock No. 1 in Leeds at about 100 feet above msl, there'd been about 400 feet of ascent over roughly 40 miles. All downhill now to Liverpool.

My overall surroundings today have been the expected opposite of yesterday's; from peaceful open coutryside to the dreary looking merged towns of Colne, Nelson and Burnley.

My final mile today was along the Burnley Embankment. Known locally as the Straight Mile, it carries the canal 60 feet over the roof tops of Burnley. The Embankment is a remarkable engineering feat, one of the wonders of the waterway. One day, I thought, as I made my way down into town, we may be able to engineer better weather.

Image: Foulridge Tunnel - Leeds side.