No Moor Today

It was tempting to stay a while longer in Yorkshire but my new found freedom is not so great yet to allow excursions on a whim without regard to the simpler things that must be done at home. Plus, my prayer, which had been answered, had been for four days fair weather - it was fair for November given that there had been no rain during daylight hours. So best not to stretch my fortune.

It was a foggy return journey though, the North South Divide on Friday being where the Sun broke through nearer home.

Back to daydreaming about long distance walks now with no excuse for lack of time to prepare the body to do them.

Levisham Moor - Again

There are more Duchy of Lancaster No Parking signs in Goathland than anyone could point a walking pole at. So, unable to find a decent spot to leave the Grampervan close enough to today's objective - Two Howe Rigg, just south of Goathland, I returned to what has become my forward operating base - Saltergate Car Park on the A169. Ryedale District Council's sign, unlike the aforesaid pesky Duchy's signs, welcomes all. And a particular benefit at this time of the year is that there aren't many "all".

Cross over the road and be not careful and you will fall into The Hole of Horcum! (I must remember that one to frighten the kids or put a curse on a Duchy).

We were careful and made it to the bottom of the hole, then along it, up and around the other side of it. You'll just have to look at the map to see the easy route we took.

I wouldn't like to guess which is the oldest - the bridleway running generally north east from Levisham and partly alongside The Hole (the very same that we trod yesterday) or the dikes that abut it. However, the dikes were constructed about 2000 years ago. In awe, silenced and humbled, I took shelter there, reverently, trying to take in the enormity of two--thousand--years! Which was very tiring so I polished off my cheese sandwiches and hot chocolate.

Levisham Moor

Walking across Levisham Moor today (Wednesday), I was reminded of Max Miller (the celebrated comedian, Cheeky Chappie) and his story regarding Albert, a farmer, ploughing a field when his plough broke. Wondering what to do, and desperate to finish the job he thought; "I know. I'll drive down to Joe's farm - he'll lend me his plough." So off he went on his tractor.
After a while Albert had second thoughts; "What if Joe is using his plough? Then this will have been a wasted journey." (A worrier, Albert.) "Still, best to give it a go." he decided, continuing.
A while later he had more doubts; "Joe's a fussy one. Cautious to lend me the plough, he might say his is broken too." "Well I'm half way there now so I might as well carry on."
Further on and further doubts; "Maybe he just won't want to help me out. Joe can be that way at times." Nevertheless, he drove on.
Then, shortly before arriving, Albert thought; "There's no way that Joe is going to lend me his plough. He's always been that sort."
Arriving at the farm, it was Joe that answered the door, but before he could say a word, Albert shouted; "Well you know what you can do with your bl*!dy plough!" and stormed off.

My version and telling of that joke won't, of course, do justice to the way the great Max Miller told it. But it was brought to mind because, like Albert, I didn't know if I would get what I wanted when I arrived at my destination - The Horseshoe Inn at Levisham in my case. It all depended upon whether or not dogs were allowed on the premises, and I hadn't checked beforehand.

Dogs are allowed in and we both got a very friendly welcome. Holly had a rest by the fire and I got the hot soup and half a pint of Black Sheep Bitter that I had hoped for. Then we returned across the moor on a dry but very windy day to the Saltergate Car Park on the A169, me wondering what to worry about next.

Pictures: The Hole of Horcum; Dundale Pond near Levisham.

Hazelhead Moor

There was a look in Holly's eye, as I got ready for a night out in downtown Thornton-le-dale, that said "I'll stay. Bring me something back pLLease" but I ignored it. On this cold, dank, foggy (Tuesday) evening few would want to venture out but I could see her stretched out by the log fire at The Buck Hotel. And so we went and she comandeered the hearth.

Earlier today we'd left the Grampavan at the Saltergate Carpark - beside the A619 overlooking the Hole of Horcom (as the crow flies, about 6.5 miles NNE of T-le-Dale) whilst we walked a 4 mile circuit of Hazelhead Moor.

It's not a high moor but sufficiently so to be above today's mist, which lingered all day in some areas, and to keep us in bright sunlight. We had fine views from the bridleway which runs along Saltergate Brow in an overall north eastern direction to Whinny Nab and down to the Malo Cross. A footpath goes south from there to a track which connects with Old Wifes Way. That heads northwest and back to the A169.

I can see all that on my Memory Map device. I have yet to work out if and how to reproduce the image here - the way that others do so admirably on their blogs. Laters though, when it's warmer.

Pictures: Blakey Topping from Whinny Nab; Malo Cross

Thornton-le-Dale

We spent the night on a railway line - well, a dismantled one which is now a small caravan site on the southern outskirts of Thornton-le-Dale, which itself is on the southern boundary of The North York Moors National Park. A level pitch in a quiet spot, 16 Amp mains electricity and four nights for the price of three persuaded me to make this my base.

A later than planned departure and delays along the way left little time to explore in daylight. Holly had a quick dip in the stream that runs through the village, she no doubt wondering why I opted for a hot shower later.

Monday evening is not a good time for the traveller looking for dinner here. One (The Buck Hotel) of the two pubs I passed doesn't do food on Mondays, the other's (The New Inn - which advertises that it welcomes dogs) kitchen is closed for a fortnight, the several tea rooms shut shop early and the Chip Shop/Cafe doesn't open Mondays - (that used to be a sign of a good chip shop, along with queues, so good news perhaps). Another pub/hotel - The Hall Inn does not admit dogs.

So, we dined in, and I got into Ken Follett's "The Pillars of the Earth", a book that I have been saving for this trip. The opening line - "Nothing happens the way you plan it".

On A Whim And A Prayer

As I suspected and hoped, retirement is freedom; freedom, amongst other things, to choose if and when to do something. And so, I'm off to Yorkshire on Monday for a few days on a whim and a prayer.

The whim is in the going and the prayer is a common enough English one - for fair weather. Yes, I know it's November but nothing ventured nothing gained.

We're an ageing threesome. Officially, I'll be a Pensioner next year. Holly my 11 year old Border Terrier is probably one now in dog years and the Grampervan (my J Reg, VW T4 Campervan) looks like one.

We are raring to go though. And, no matter if the prayer isn't answered in full. A fresh wind and sleety rain should blow and wash away the cobwebs, and work up a healthy thirst and appetite. Our first stop is Thornton-le-Dale where it is said there are three pubs and a fish and chip shop.

Holly

The New Term - 2

Well, we made it to Coniston on Tuesday where I introduced Tara and Rueben to the Black Bull rather than the Old Man. It seemed to me that a walk to the summit of The Old Man of Coniston in non-stop rain wouldn't endear my grandchildren to The Lake District.

Lunch at The Black Bull, Coniston

We meet the locals

Tara prepares desert while Rueben relaxes

Teenagers' bedroom Day 1

On Thursday morning we walked around Ulverston including Hoad Monument

Ulverston

Not quite the walking holiday that we had hoped for but we were agreed that it was an enjoyable way to spend half-term.

Disagreements with teenagers regarding what to wear in wet weather and what time to get up in the morning were easily settled. Compromise and truce do not work. The grandfather must accept unconditional surrender.

The New Term - 1

According to the BBC this morning, it will be sunny in Coniston on Tuesday 26th October. I hope that the forecasters are proved right about that; I'm taking two of my grandchildren, Tara and Rueben, to The Lake District and Tuesday is pencilled in for a climb up The Old Man of Coniston - T&R's first mountain. I don't anticipate problems if it rains whilst we are out walking but getting the beds off their back if it's pouring outside won't be pleasant. And it is a holiday. Not my normal walking holiday though.

Monday we drive up there, Tuesday walking, Wednesday partying, Thursday shopping, Friday home. Plan B, a wet weather programme, is that activities on Tuesday and Thursday can be transposed. A compromise (an unbelievably hard one for me to bear) is that T&R can sleep in on Wednesday and Thursday.

For the children it will be a half-term holiday.

For me it's an end-of-term holiday.

I joined the ranks of the retired this month and can now look forward to a new term where there is more time to do the things that I would like to do rather than must do.

The Greensand Ridge Walk - 2

Tara, Rueben and I walked another section of The Greensand Ridge Walk yesterday - from Haynes to Sandy, here in Bedfordshire. There were more than enough ingredients to make it an enjoyable day out:

Blackberries

An early birthday present for Rueben

Whittling

Peashooter

Conkers

Multitasking (peeling potatoes whilst walking along The Greensand Ridge)

The Greensand Ridge Walk - 1

Taking the quote, attributed to Lao Tzu, at face value and ignoring any deeper meaning that "A good traveller has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving" may have, and applying it to backpacking is a frame of mind that I aspire to. And it was a condition that I came close to on Sunday thanks to two of my grandchildren - Tara (age 13 this month) and Rueben (12 next month).

They had asked if they could go walking and camping with me so we went on a one-day outing as an introductory test walk at the weekend. They passed with flying colours, covering the five miles effortlessly and, more importantly, clearly enjoyed being outdoors without focussing on getting to our destination, or as Lao Tzu put it "not intent on arriving". It was a salutary lesson for me - something that they did naturally and that I will have to work at to achieve. It's going to be a delight when we go further afield.

On Sunday though, we walked from Woburn to Eversholt and back. It's a section of The Greensand Ridge Walk - a forty mile route from Leighton Buzzard in Bedfordshire to Gamlingay, Cambridge -shire. For Tara and Rueben there was no urgent need to get to Eversholt where refreshments at The Green Man were a draw for me. They found plenty to explore and see along the way which is mostly over the grounds of Woburn Abbey.

We have now voted to do the whole route eventually, covering some of it in both directions. Our next section is likely to be from Haynes to Sandy - a walk of seven and a half miles as it happens. But that won't be important to Tara and Rueben I'm pleased to say. For them it'll be another day out and a few steps closer to backpacking and camping.