South West Coast Path - Day 6

Thu 8 May - Day Off

A wet and windy day in an English seaside town doesn't always present a pretty picture, in fact it can look quite miserable. But the sights weren't foremost on my mind today; I fancied a break from routine and my nagging left knee needed a rest, and Ilfracombe has provided both.

Despite not having "a plan", I do have to consider where best to finish up on Wednesday 14th in order to get back to Minehead on Thursday. If I maintain my current average daily mileage then I'll make it to Westward Ho! where transport connections seem favourable.

Off I go then.

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South West Coast Path - Day 5

Wed  7 May - Heddon Valley to Illfracombe

Food has been a major feature today. And a pattern is emerging with breakfast. Easygoing in nature for a start. I can recognise the look of relief when I immediately agree to the suggested meal time. "Half eight Sir?" "Yes please - that's good for me." Rather than barter for an early getaway.

And I've been taking my time consuming fruit juice, tea, cereal, fried egg (two in Lynton), bacon, grilled tomato, toast and other bits. Before heading down Killer Lane this morning, mushrooms and fried bread were on my plate as well.

I made good time to Combe Martin (8 miles?) and felt reinvigorated after delicious Broccoli & Stilton Soup at The Harbour Deli. So in high spirits I decided to make it a longer walking day by continuing to Illfracombe, 7-8 miles distant including the highest point on the SWCP at Great Hangman.

Illfracombe Tourist Information Centre pointed me in the direction Acorn Lodge, a nice b&b with friendly hosts where I have a clean and bright, en suite room with a double bed (and breakfast tomorrow of course) for £35.

Dinner in town this evening was at Take Thyme where I enjoyed Dover Sole with a light sauce of lemon zest and thyme, mint buttered new potatoes and a side salad with French dressing, followed by homemade Rhubarb & Pear Crumble with a local ice cream.

Fuel for the coast path walker.

[Image is Illfracombe Harbour]

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South West Coast Path - Day 4

Tue 6 May - Lyndon to Heddon Valley.

Most SWCP walkers will end up in Combe Martin at this stage of their walk. That's the best part of 14 miles with about 3,800 feet of ascent. Guide books rate the route "strenuous" so I set my sights on Heddons Mouth, 7 miles from Lyndon. There's a pub a half a mile off the SWCP and a farm b&b half a mile east from there which on this occasion I had booked by landline the night before. Mannacott Farm (Grid SS 662481) is approached from the pub via Kings Lane. It's a very steep climb. Killer Lane would be a better name.

There were many differences today; a gentle downhill route out of town rather than up; even more spectacular views from cliff-hugging, narrow paths; and ferral goats rather than sheep.

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South West Coast Path - Day 3

Mon 5 May - A field to Lynton

I sometimes feel a strong craving for something when walking. Today it was ice cold fruit squash. At my first point of call at Lynmouth this afternoon they had none, nor at the second. The third did but no ice and it was disgusting. Their bacon and tomato sandwich and two pots of tea hit the spot though so we parted friends.

It was a hard walk - only about 7-8 miles but a roller coaster route. And breakfast hadn't amounted to much after a poor nights sleep. I thought I'd chosen a sheltered spot to pitch my tent but it wasn't when the breeze changed direction and increased it's force. I was concerned that we would be blown away but we stood our ground, both flapping in our own way.

I have found perfect accommodation in Lynton - Southcliffe B&B, where hosts, David & Ceri provided a lovely roast pork dinner with all the trimmings. A good choice - I couldn't have handled lamb. Now I've got a lovely double bed firmly set on the floor.

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South West Coast Path - Day 2

Sun 4 May - Porlock to a field.

It might seem odd that the first real contact with the sea when following this coastal path (unless toes were dipped at Minehead) is on the approach to Porlock Weir, where the path is in fact the pebble beach which leads into the hamlet.

From there it feels like mostly upwards, through pleasant woodland and past sheep-filled fields. Many fields and lots of sheep.

I found one lamb stuck up a tree! Having rescued the cuddly creature, it was heart-warming to see it belt away, when released, to it's mum for a swift half of milk.

Like I said - I'm dawdling, and today I'd had enough after 5-6 miles so I pitched my tent (Shangri-La 1) in a field, unseen by anyone I think except sheep. One of whom detached itself from the staring flock to more closely check me out. Returning it's stare, I recited:

"Mary had a little lamb,

She ate it with mint sauce.

So everywhere that Mary went

The lamb went too of course."

The Recce Platoon's detached sheep seemed to get the message and immediately reported back to Flock HQ and I wasn't bothered again.

[Some technical problems sending to blog. Reduced picture to 30% on the hope that this post is transmitted.]

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South West Coast Path - Day 1

Sat 3 May - Minehead to Porlock

Apparently, Minehead gets it's name from an old Welsh word meaning "mountain". Those setting out on the SW Coast Path might think that fitting during the climb to the path's highest point on the "mountain" (North Hill) where there is a well used bench - and a marvellous view over the Bristol Channel to the Welsh coast.

After a night at the most excellent Tregonwell House in Minehead (where perfect hosts Andy & Sue agreed to look after my van for the duration of my walk), I have dawdled for the 8 miles or so to Porlock on a fine, sunny day. And that's the general aim over the next 11 days. No plan; nothing booked or points to get to  - stopping off at a B&B if a bed is available, otherwise looking for somewhere to pitch my tent.

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Dreaming in Hayfield, High Peak

An aim this year is to walk a couple of long distance trails. But because I've become used to local strolls, preparation will  have to include increasingly longer walks to improve fitness. Best get to it I thought. But at the same time, no need to overdo it. Break myself in gently perhaps. And why not begin by dreaming about what I aim to do - and do the hard part later.

And that is what I have mostly been doing this past week - dreaming. Whilst making sure I wasn’t wet, cold, hot, tired, thirsty or hungry during the process - all part of what I can expect later this year if my backpacking dreams and plans come true!

I have just spent a week in cosy Jumble Cottage, Hayfield, Derbyshire. If you want a peaceful place (for one or two) to dream or a base where the hills are just yards away, or both, then I can recommend it as a good spot to stay. And Hayfield, which sits below Kinder Plateau, ticked all the right boxes for me.

Luckily, the weather was kind so I was able to combine some dreaming with walking, mostly after setting out each day along Snake Path heading for Kinder Scout.



 Middle Moor - view north east toward Kinder Plateau



Kinder Reservoir from Snake Path



White Brow where Snake Path leads NE to The Pennine Way

I Started Another Blog Recently

Although it’s been a while since I backpacked along any of our National Trails – the sort of travels that have in the past prompted me to blog, I have been walking locally, mostly in the historic county of Bedfordshire. Doing so has opened my eyes to the poor state of some of our public rights of way. Sadly there are plenty of paths that cannot be used at all and others that are likely to be lost forever because of the so called “cut-off date” of 2026. The situation is echoed in many counties of England and Wales.

The local authorities whose duty it is to protect and care for our public rights of way, generally say that they can’t afford to look after our paths because of “the economic climate” but I feel that is just a lame, convenient excuse. The real reason is that some, certainly my council, do not seem to care. And they can get away with that attitude if the public doesn’t care either, or at least if the majority don’t. Initial contacts with my council to express concern drew little interest leading me to score it as a moderate success if I even received a reply. I now represent the Open Spaces Society and so have a louder voice (I suppose the council might say “bigger mouth”) which will be harder to ignore.

If this blog is called Brian Walking then I could have called my new blog Brian Ranting, but I resisted the urge. But that is what I shall mostly do there - rant. Yet I’m keen to give credit where it’s due and hope to find cases to rave about rather than complain. It’s in my nature to resist the urge to be too hopeful on that count though.

Meanwhile, I am preparing to get back to the more enjoyable pastime of walking with shelter, rations and the relevant kit on my back. I’m still dreaming about where to go but The Pennine Way will be the major trek next year.

Blogspot moves with the times so I’m on a steep learning curve with some of the new-fangled technology but you can find my latest offerings HERE

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Work in progress

We plough the fields and scatter ...

It’s a double whammy when I haven’t walked a long distance path for a while; no long walk so no blog. That’s because I tend to write about the longer treks rather than your everyday local walks. The situation should have been remedied this week in the Lake District where I had a 10-day holiday planned. Regrettably, a need to cancel at the last moment put paid to that though. So, keen to update my scribblings with something/anything in order to satisfy the blogging bug I thought I’d let the fingers do the talking about more local matters.

The weather in this part of the country has been perfect for farmers and walkers. Farmers have just about finished harvesting cereals and are well into ploughing and sewing winter crops over which walkers such as I have the pleasure of walking around or over. Witnessing the harvesting at close range can be spectacular.

John Deere 9030 Series with Gregoire Besson 12 Furrow plough - south of Thurleigh, Bedfordshire

Here’s the twelve furrow Greqoire Besson 12 Furrow plough in action. The sound track is grim but bearable so endure it (concentrate though or you’ll be reluctant to admit that you were actually tapping your feet or wobbling something) for at least a minute until you have seen the miraculous, mesmerising, manoeuvring, machinations of this magnificent feat of engineering upon arrival at the headland.

A nice walk this either by bus to Thurleigh and a wander back to Bedford; or a wander to Thurleigh and a bus back to Bedford; or a wander to The Jackal at Thurleigh and  back.

The West Highland Way - After

Inveroran Hotel (2-3 miles north of Bridge of Orchy)

A Scottish friend of mine would occasionally say, with a sigh, “It’s a sair fecht”. A straight translation of which is - “It’s a sore fight.”

When people use this phrase they mean – “It’s a hard life.” People usually say it when they are just a bit fed up with things, not seriously despondent or depressed.

That was me on The West Highland Way.

Perhaps it was my very high expectations that were vulnerable and therefore almost guaranteed to plummet. Whatever the reason, regrettably, the overall experience of  walking The West Highland Way was not a good one for me.

The reader will want to know what the main problem was. Well, the Scottish Midge essentially. Call me stupid but I don’t find it enjoyable walking the length of Loch Lomond, and elsewhere, if I’m unable to take the weight off my feet and laze without fear of being eaten by clouds of evil midges.

A lady at Rowardennan said “There’s a reason for the midges but I can’t remember what it is.” Err, alright then. Food chain maybe? The House Martins hoovering up the midges outside at the time would agree that point if they were capable of agreeing anything. And if it is food chain then fine. Just leave me (and my friends) out of it.

Also, me being me, if one thing doesn’t suit me I do tend to look at other things in a bad light which can exacerbate the problem. In short order, I did not appreciate the beer (a Tartan Special at the Rod & Reel in Crianlarich was ok after the third pint), the food; the Full Scottish Breakfast looks a bit lonely on the plate, and they don’t seem to even have plates at The Inversnaid Hotel …

Prodnose: “Enough!!”

Me: “But they’ll want to hear about the walk. About the good company of Andrea, Markus and Anthony, the friendly locals, what the scenery looks like through the secure window of a b&b where the inside temperature is 34C , where midges congregate in a tent, how small the fried eggs ...”

Prodnose: “You’re off again. Enough!