The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 4

14 May: Embleton - Bamburgh (11 miles)

It's always satisfying to get away without delay - breakfast at a reasonable time, and no faffing around. Happily, that's how it was this morning. Only 11 miles to my destination but with the BBC doom merchant forecasting heavy, thundery showers later, I didn't want to dawdle today.

The wind direction had changed. The last couple of days I had been partly wind assisted; today I was leaning into it. A local told me that it was the east and north winds that kept most tourists off the beaches.

Lunch was taken at Seahouses - a nice little place with some of the paraphrenalia of a seaside town; amusement arcades, fish & chip shops and the like. A healthy ham salad sandwich in a bakery cafe for me as I sat beside a young man seeing off a Belly Buster Stottie. A stottie is a jumbo size bun the size of a large dinner plate. The Belly Buster is half a stottie filled with sausage, bacon, egg, mushrooms, baked beans and tomatoes. I understand that elsewhere, hot roast beef and gravy stotties are popular. Sounds good but I thought "laters" and went for a half pint of Five Bridges Bitter as a chaser in a pub down the road.

The final three miles today were along a (sorry to go on about the beaches but they are lovely) white, sand beach which lead to the sand dunes below Bamburgh Castle.

It's not until you reach the landward side of the castle that you can appreciate just how big and beautiful the fortress is. It's breathtaking. For once, awesome might be the right word.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 3

13 May: Alnmouth - Embleton (10 miles)

Sandy beaches, grassy paths, golf courses, a castle and Northumbrian Police 'No Camping' signs featured on today's amble.

On my right, the beaches were almost deserted; on my left the golf links were crowded; and on the path, the centre of my universe, I met other walkers. They were heading in the opposite direction (I don't do overtake) and most have time for a chat which immediately confirms that they are not fleeing from something terrible. Reassured, I reflect positively that a lone walker's walk is not a lonely one.

I like the local accent; softer than the Geordie accent further south, it's friendly, cheerful and engaging. Not always though. Mrs Grumpy Golfer cautioned me from afar today. Stetched out on the seaward side of the path, like a beached whale looking out to sea, my day dreams were angrily interupted by "You can stay there if you want but you could get hit by a golf ball mind!" I swung my rucksack on and lumbered off, thinking only of all the things I could have said.

In the pub this evening, harmony of mind and soul was restored with the passing of time and a little alcohol.

Image: Dunstanburgh Castle (north of Craster) [Using zoom on my phone camera produces out of focus image - or was it too much Black Sheep]

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 2

12 May: Felton - Alnmouth (13 miles)

A diverse selection of scenery over such a short distance today.

Farmland on the first section, between Felton and Warkworth via Guyzance, changes from livestock to agricultural; sheep and cattle replaced by cereal crops. Between Warkworth and Alnmouth it's coastal with sand dunes, golf courses and a wide, sandy (and today, an almost deserted) beach.

Under foot there are changes too; some country roads, a metalled cycle track and sand - sea water as well if you fancy it.

At walkworth there is a most attactive castle (a chequred history but first built in 1150), an excellent cafe and five pubs - I had time to sample the Jenning's Cumberland Ale in The Black Bull.

There are five pubs in Alnmouth as well although you wouldn't know that there were any if consulting the 1;25,000 map because, strangely, there's no pub symbol shown. They are well and truly there though and I can recommend The Red Lion and The Sun.

Images: Warkworth Castle and Alnworth Bay.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 1

Subject: The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 1
Date: 12/05/2011 05:43

11 May: Rothbury - Fenton (12 miles)

My day started with an owl and finished with black sheep. It felt like a long day because the owl was hooting at 04:00 and I was up and about soon after - as were the wood pigeons who woke the other birds for choir practice.

I had a half baked plan today - head for the coast. At 17.5 miles distant that was a rather ambitious target for me. I haven't got myself fit for this walk, this being the bump start for fitness training for next month's walk. And it's a holiday, I remind myself, so dawdle if you wish, which I did. And will.

The route east mostly follows that of the St Oswald's Way, through lush countryside where woods are carpeted in bluebells and wild garlic (stinking onions), fields are crowded with sheep still with their lambs, and swallows (or martins) and gulls swoop over the River Coquet (pronounced co-cut) which is never far away.

Lunch at The Anglers Arms, Wheldon Bridge (see image), where I couldn't help but attempt that old favourite "The Railway goes through the middle of the house, the middle of the house ...", a pot of tea at the cafe in Felton, followed by a swift half of Black Sheep Bitter across the river at The Northumberland Arms, West Thirston, led to another, slower one and the realisation (with the clarity conjured up by the magical properties of bitter) that I'd had enough for the day. Walking that is; plenty more Black Sheep where the first two came from.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Before

There are still a few days before the off but loud and clear in my head it's "Here we go, here we go, here we goooo .... "

"The Inn Way to Northumberland" is one of a series of walks devised by Mark Reid. His guide book (which is being revised, for publication in August this year) describes a 94 mile circular walk from Rothbury. The route follows the Coquet Valley to the sea, heads north along the coast, then west and south to and over the Cheviot Hills. There are lots of watering holes along the way. Lots.

Except for Bed & Breakfast on the first and last night in Rothbury, nothing is fixed or booked. So I will be as free (and possibly as relaxed) as a newt. I'll be carrying a tent and some rations but Northumbrian hospitality, accommodation, food and drinks may prevail.

There I'll go, there I'll go, there I'll goooo ....

Breaking Blogio Silence

"Great Scot!" (Doc Brown - Back to the Future.) Where did April go?

And what to write when not walking when you've dedicated a blog to only wittering about that subject (walking) - that's the thing!

A gear report can provide a worthy stopgap but with no new kit to speak of, I can't use that ploy. Notes on preparations and planning is permitted but I have been remiss (lazy) in that area. And the return reader will tire of pathetic variations on a theme of "limited to walks of less-than-a-mile because my dog can't manage further in her old age."

That's the situation though. Holly, my elderly Border Terrier, just can't walk far, and I can't bear the thought of leaving her in kennels to allow me off the leash. She is happy with my daughter and family or with my sister and family though, and more to the point, selfishly, I'm happy for her to be with them.

So, I'm very pleased to announce that arrangements have been made that enable me to head north next week. Our needs and my peace of mind will be satisfied when Holly takes it easy at my sister's house in Cumbria and I go walkabout (and drinkabout) in Northumberland.

In June, daughter and family will take care of Holly allowing me a week to cross Dartmoor and Exmoor. After that, in July, sister is on duty again giving me a week in the Lake District.

"If you put your mind to it, you can accomplish anything." (Marty McFly - Back to the Future.)

Tattersett, Norfolk

Weathermen/wimin eh! During the course of this week they forecasted: white cloud, then heavy rain, then grey cloud, then heavy rain, for this part of Norfolk today. In the event it's a beautiful, fresh, ever-so-slightly-hazy, spring-like sunny morning (get the picture?). And I'm the only person here at Greenwoods Camping & Caravan Site, Tattersett. Even the owner has legged it.

Lake District - Keswick

Today's theme was "Walk Local" - no car, no public transport. So where better than Latrigg again. It's an easy circular walk (same as Monday), sufficient to get my heart working overtime mind, and the confines of Brundholme Wood on the southern slopes contrast nicely with the wide-open grassy summit.

Brundholme Wood - Latrigg

It was Market Day in Keswick which livened the place up a bit - not that it needs enlivening. There's plenty to see, do, eat and drink, and I did all of that.

Keswick - Market Day

So - there's my day gone. My mini-break too; I head south for home tomorrow.

Lake District - Cat Bells

Another "touristy" walk today but one that took me a bit further and higher.

Wanting to avoid the walk out of Keswick, I got a lift to my start point at Hawes End (Grid NY 24721 21180). A footpath from the road there zig-zags up to Skelgill Bank, levels briefly then drops slightly before continuing up to the summit of Cat Bells at 1480 feet. The views just keep getting better on the way up which is for about a mile. Although it was hazy this morning or was that the steam coming off me.

Cat Bells from Skelgill Bank

Dropping down to the lake (not literally of course) I followed the lakeside footpath which leads to Keswick and which is a section of The Cumbria Way. I know it well having walked it a couple of times before.

Hot soup for lunch in Keswick left me drowsy rather than rejuvenated. So, acting my age, I had a nap on a park bench - sitting upright, chin on chest (you get the picture daughter).

Years ago, the tell-tale signs of eyes glazing over would have alerted a teacher; Action Stations! Run Silent! Wait (hope) for the head to sag then deliver a salvo of chalk, or deploy a black board duster to bring the lad back to double maths.

Today though, I was left in peace.

Lake District -Walla Crag

Returning to my B&B from Keswick town centre at night involves walking along a dimly lit road where cars tend to speed. Wise, longer-lived pedestrians will heed the advice given in safety campaigns and take precautions to be seen at night. A white carrier bag (containing my shopping) did the job for me last night. You can't be too careful. I heard about a chap who took it to the limit - white coat, hat, scarf and gloves; white wellies; a newspaper in one hand and white carrier bag in the other. Sadly, the poor guy was run over by a snow plough.

Looking NW from Walla Crag - Bassenthwaite Lake in the distance, Skiddaw top right

There's still some snow here but it's all on the high hill tops; nothing at the levels that I have reached, which today was just over 1200 feet on a five mile walk over Walla Crag. Heading south from Keswick, there's a short sharp final climb up towards the summit and a very steep, rocky descent.

No speeding cars up there to watch out for but you do have to look carefully at where you put your feet on the way down.

Path down from Walla Crag