Brian walking

Leeds and Liverpool Canal Path - After

2011-10-16T22:50:00.000+01:00

It seems crazy to me that so many Tourist Information Centres (TIC) have closed down – which they have if you hadn’t noticed. I rarely reserve accommodation, preferring the benefit of the freedom to choose, when and where to stay overnight, on arrival. Letting the TIC’s accommodation booking service do their best at the end of my walking day has balanced my luck and has been worthwhile for all concerned; I’m shown room availability matched against personal requirements, the TIC gets a fee (10% of the room tariff) and the inn, a last minute booking (less 10% of tariff). As a last minute booking there’s usually a discount too. TICs are a wealth of local information. So, for me, on The Leeds and Liverpool Canal Towpath walk, TICs were sorely missed. And will be in the future too. RIP TIC.

Finding accommodation was critical on this walk because I wasn’t carrying a tent, sleeping bag, food and cooker. It did feel odd but marvellously light; my pack was a very comfortable 15lbs or so. Prize winning item was the Golite Dome Umbrella. Lightweight (215g), unbelievably strong (bendy) and in strong wind/driving rain it feels indestructible. A backpacker with an umbrella might seem out of place (Hiram Holiday with a rucksack) but it does the business, like the TICs used to.

Would I walk a towpath again? Yes. With a bit more research beforehand – I over relied on chance, even shorter distances perhaps giving time to visit local attractions, and a bed booked in advance as well next time round.

Leeds and Liverpool Canal Walk - Day 6

2011-10-10T21:51:00.005+01:00

Blackburn - Chorley (12 miles)

My target today was Bridge 76A. Although just beyond the turn-off point from the canal into Chorley, 76A is special. Apart from it being the likely end of my canal walk, the bridge and I share a name, it being The Cowling Bridge. Something else we shared on the day too - we were both, errr - clean, through to the skin/metal, washed by the constant rain.

It's a twenty minute walk from the canal into Chorley town centre. A decent town centre - modern, with a covered market, an interesting mix of shops, pubs, restaurants, etc, and a Booths supermarket - a quality store in my opinion and a bonus point for Chorley. Things were on the up after the disappointments of Burnley and Blackburn.

It got better though. My B&B for the night, a 10 minute walk from the town centre, is totally excellent. All it says on http://www.inglewoodboutiquebandb.co.uk and more. Plus it is within 200 yards of a great restaurant http://www.new-season.co.uk which has a pub either side of it. Now THIS is what I'm talking about.

I have one scheduled walking day remaining but I'm finishing here - on a high. Wigan became my expected last (canal) port of call (although never my intention, two more days at my pace and I would have reached Liverpool). The relentless rain is taking the fun out of this stroll though.

Luckily for me, Chorley has a direct rail service to south Cumbria where I left my dog and van. I'll blog again on Sunday. I've whinged a bit here so an apology may be in order, plus, I'd like to mention one most excellent item of kit that I carried.

Image: The Cowling Bridge, Chorley.

Leeds and Liverpool Canal Path - Day 5

2011-10-09T21:27:00.001+01:00

Burnley - Blackburn (17 miles)

It's not good when I think, "Crumbs, is it only day 4!". So you may already suspect that it hasn't been a cheery day for me. The truth is, that today's walk was a bit of a trudge - head down in the rain with few people out and about.

In wet weather I share the towpath with joggers isolated in their Ipod worlds and the odd (one or two odd, not odd odd) angler, who mostly resolutely stare at the canal, refusing to catch my eye as I glide past, considerately, not wishing to frighten off the fish. "Is it 'cos Ize a backpacker?" I wonder. Or is it their fear perhaps that if they look up to say "Ow do?", (or preferbly a greeting with the letter "u" in it - I like the Lancashire accent) the waiting fish will seize the moment, nick the bait and leg it (or should that be fin it?).

I just checked that; swung head sideways and upward, saying "Ow do?" with the head returning to face make-believe water before completing the word "do". Takes less than a second I reckon. It's just possible to carry out the same exercise but swivelling the eyes, straining at the sockets, to keep watching the water. Hurts a bit though. Looks weird too.

Listening to Blackburn Cathedral bells (as I circle the building, searching but failing to find a good spot to take a photo) lifts my spirits for a while but they sink again slightly when wandering around another familiar-looking town centre, all mall and no soul (searching and failing to find a good pub or restaurant).

What chance the next two days - Chorley then Wigan. I can deal with the rain so fingers crossed for a friendly pint, a hearty meal and quality accommodation.

Image: Entrance, Blackburn Cathedral.

Leeds & Liverpool Canal Path - Day 4

2011-10-08T21:28:00.001+01:00

(Near) Barnoldswick - Burnley (9 canal miles)

A reluctant start this morning. Did I really want to watch the England v France Rugby World Cup game or was I looking for a way to delay the inevitable - setting off on a wet, miserable looking morning. After 10 minutes of play, England's prospects didn't look promising to me. I deserted them, creeping away, taking my chances with the weather.

A short walk down the A56, then across some fields and I was back on the towpath. Only for a mile though, as far as the Foulridge Tunnel. It's almost a mile long (1640 yards) but without a towpath so I took to the road, though Foulridge, skirting a reservoir, returning to the canal around Barrowford Locks.

I was at the summit of the canal - 495 feet (18.2m) above mean sea-level. With Lock No. 1 in Leeds at about 100 feet above msl, there'd been about 400 feet of ascent over roughly 40 miles. All downhill now to Liverpool.

My overall surroundings today have been the expected opposite of yesterday's; from peaceful open coutryside to the dreary looking merged towns of Colne, Nelson and Burnley.

My final mile today was along the Burnley Embankment. Known locally as the Straight Mile, it carries the canal 60 feet over the roof tops of Burnley. The Embankment is a remarkable engineering feat, one of the wonders of the waterway. One day, I thought, as I made my way down into town, we may be able to engineer better weather.

Image: Foulridge Tunnel - Leeds side.

Leeds & Liverpool Canal Path - Day 3

2011-10-07T21:00:00.001+01:00

Skipton - Barnoldswick (13 miles)

Barnoldswick, known locally as Barlik, is the highest town on The LL Canal. It sits about 490 feet above mean sea-level - the highest point on the canal, which I will clamber over tomorrow, is 5 feet higher.

Three other things about Barnoldswick:
1. It is one of almost longest place names in the UK without repeating any letters (Buckfastleigh in Devon, Buslingthorpe in Leeds and Buslingthorpe in Lincs, with 13 letters, are the longest).
2. There's only one B&B in town.
3. Today it was closed.

So, finding accommodation this evening wasn't so easy. A bit more legwork was required. First stop the cafe for their last portion of home-made meat & potato pie with mushy peas, pickled red cabbage and gravy. Second stop the wine bar (all pubs, none of which do b&b, were closed) for a pint of bitter. And where the barmaid helped me locate a b&b via her friend's Facebook. Third stop, a bench in the town centre where I chat with an elderly lady who didn't know she lived in a town with one of the largest place names etc, but who didn't think Barlik, with six letters, was very long. Fourth stop the taxi rank - had enough of walking (and Barlik) - for a lift to The Old Stone Trough, an inn, 2-3 miles distant.

I have an executive room, reduced to £50 (which includes breakfast). It's in an annex, out of earshot of the main building where a live band will play tonight. Executive class rooms are larger than Club class, have bath and shower, and heating controlled by the occupant. Club class are smaller, have shower only, heating as is, and because they are in the main building, loud music - Oasis sound I'm told.

What else? Oh yes - I walked a bit, today mostly through Dales-like scenery, passing the time of day occasionally with people along the way. Enjoyed a pot of tea at The Dalesman Tea Rooms in Gargrave which is on The Pennine Way, a village I have visited before when walking the aforesaid National Trail, but for the life of me, it's a place that I cannot recall any memory of,

This is not a day I will forget though. It'll be stored in the easily accesible Fond Memories section.

Image: Skipton, heading for Barnoldswick.

Leeds & Liverpool Canal Path - Day 2

2011-10-06T21:00:00.001+01:00

Shipley - Skipton (16 miles)

News to me upon starting this walk, but common knowledge to canal users (and well-travelled cyclists) no doubt, that all the locks and bridges are numbered and named. (On The LL Canal the lock/bridge numbers ascend/descend from Leeds.) Moreover, the numbers are clearly displayed on site. With that information on the ground and the same details on the map (Geo Project LL Canal Map, £4.49) that I'm carrying, it's easy to establish my precise location. It's just as I wanted; no Ordnance Survey map, compass or GIS, no whistle in my pocket either come to that.

So far at least, there are milestones (and half mile markers) on the towpath which show distances from/to Leeds/Liverpool. The map has mile markers too and it is those that I am using to calculate my daily mileage. The miles claimed do not include anything walked off the towpath - wandering to, from or near the canal.

Not that I have strayed too far from the canal and when I have done so it has been mainly to find food, drink (nearby pubs are shown on tne map) and, with nothing booked, accommodation. Tonight's is a standard B&B - a welcomed warm, drying-out stopover on a grim (up North) night.

Image 1: Milestone
Image 2: Lock Numbers 25-29, Bingley Five Rise Locks (Takes the canal down by a height of 60 feet/18.5 metres.)

Leeds & Liverpool Canal Path - Day 1

2011-10-05T21:20:00.001+01:00

Leeds - Shipley (13 Miles)

The Leeds and Liverpool Canal starts where it joins the River Aire at Granary Wharfe, Leeds city centre. The canal is 127 miles long so I guess that the tow path is about the same length. If you include branches then the canal, at 141 miles, is the longest in the country. It's part of a through route from the North Sea to the Irish Sea via the Aire & Calder Navigation. Construction of The L&L Canal was begun in 1770 by engineer John Longbotham.

Granary Wharfe, like other areas along the waterfront, has undergone extensive regeneration recently. The Royal Armouries Museum, beside the Aire, is purpose-built and houses an absolutely fabulous collection. (Full body armour actually worn by Henry VIII! Amazing!)

And so, this morning, I set off on my stroll - against the flow of: pedestrians hurrying to work in the city centre, cyclists commuting, morons on bikes biking, (I'll try my best not to moan further about cyclists), the blustery (warm) wind, and, as it happens, the water.

I had lunch at The George & Dragon, Apperley Bridge (8+ miles), a nap beside the canal a mile further on (drowsiness brought on by the lunchtime pint of Bulldog Brown I reckon) and arrived Shipley at 15:30.

I could have walked much further but for the strong complaints being transmitted from soles of feet to brain. Ankles up I'm better than fine.

Image 1: The Royal Armouries Museum.
Image 2: River Lock - The start of The Leeds and Liverpool Canal.

Walkies!

2011-10-03T06:49:00.003+01:00

Here’s a picture of my dog, Holly, a 12 year-old border terrier. She is the main reason why I’m heading to Cumbria today (a journey brought forward a day in my impatience to get away). Nowadays, Holly’s ideal “walkies” would be for a distance of about a mile where, among other things, there’s an opportunity to cool down occasionally by getting wet on the outside. My preference would be for a longer route, where there’s the chance to cool down in comfort with something wet on the inside. So she’ll stay with family in Cumbria as I go for walkies on my own. Tomorrow, I travel by train to my start point - Leeds.

Considering where to walk and the time available it became clear that I fancied an easy walk; not too many ups and downs, minimum map reading and the time to stop and stare. My list of routes was whittled down to two; The Dales Way and a walk alongside The Leeds and Liverpool Canal. I’ve chosen the latter and set off from Leeds toward Liverpool on Wednesday.

Note the “toward Liverpool”. It’s not my aim to reach Liverpool although I may. The aim is to stroll along the canal path stopping off at suitable cooling-down points along the way.

Whether the weather ...

2011-09-28T08:31:00.004+01:00

Dare I say it – the weather prospects for the next couple of weeks are looking, well, agreeable for walking. That’s according to the BBC’s long range forecast:

Monday 3 October 2011 to Sunday 9 October 2011
Cooler but still sunny
A subtle shifting of the high pressure centre towards the southwest will start to swing the wind to more of a northerly or northwesterly, bringing slightly cooler conditions across the UK. There should, however still be plenty of warm sunshine so, in general, temperatures remaining above average for the time of year.
The northerly wind may well drag in a few showers over western and northern Scotland but most areas should be predominantly dry.

Monday 10 October 2011 to Sunday 23 October 2011
More of the same
Signals look good for a continued spell of settled weather into October as high pressure looks set to remain largely in force. It is unlikely to be totally dry through this period - it is October, after all - the most likely place for any wet weather being the north.
As we head through October the nights will get longer; consequently we'll see both lower daytime maxima and lower night time minima. Early signs are though that there should still be plenty of sunny and warm days yet to come.

The weather is of particular interest because I’m going walkabout next week for a week.

I have two routes in mind – one an easy walk (a few hills and some camping), the other easier (no hills, no camping), both in the north of England. I’ll decide which route on Monday and head north on Tuesday which will leave me seven days for walking.

It’s blogged and logged BBC Weatherman! You’ve got yourself fairly well covered but you are still optimistic about decent weather. Here’s hoping.

Wasdale Head - Ravenglass : 8 July 11

2011-07-17T05:30:00.009+01:00

Soup and trains were on my mind as we walked away from Wasdale Head, taking what I would call the easier route – to the east of Burnmoor Tarn and then down Miterdale to Eskdale Green.

Kirkstone Fell (centre) Great Gable (right)

The last time that I was in this area the King George IV Inn at Eskdale Green was closed when I arrived - up-for-sale, so the soup I had been walking toward never materialised. And I just never got around to a ride along the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway – The La'al Ratty. Happily though, today both those accounts were settled.

At the pub, Soup of the Day came with a bun and a smile. And The Ratty is guaranteed to put a smile on everyone's face. It makes for a graceful entry into Ravenglass too – the end of our journey.

Buttermere - Wastdale Head : 7 July 11

2011-07-17T05:08:00.003+01:00

There was much to appreciate along today's route but the highlight for me was revisiting Black Sail Hut. It brought back memories of last year’s Coast to Coast Walk and in particular my Day 2.

Black Sail Hut (centre left)- viewed from below Haystacks

It had rained all the way from Ennerdale Bridge that day in August last year and by the time I arrived at Black Sail Hut I was soaked to the skin. Today’s was better weather so we and the Coast to Coasters resting and arriving there at lunchtime were in a much better state than I had been. Although, it being the Coast to Coasters’ Day 2 also, some were .. err.. edgy? Inner battles and second thoughts perhaps, about what they had let themselves in for. Hee hee.

Climbing up to Black Sail Pass was hard work for me but with Buttermere behind me, spirit was rising as well as the body. The brief halts to catch my breath enabled me to track the Coast to Coasters in the valley below heading toward Black Sail Hut and those nearer Loft Beck making their way up (puffing) to Honistor Pass. Double Hee hee.

Loft Beck - viewed from bridleway to Black Sail Pass

We arrived Wastdale Head in fine weather to be greeted by the cheerful, helpful staff of The Wastdale Head Inn, Jennings Cumberland Ale, Cumberland Sausage, mashed potatoes and vegetables.

Buttermere Bridge Hotel Wallahs should take a hike - to this valley. Treat the Thursday night/Friday morning crew here properly, and learn.

Keswick - Buttermere : 6 July 11

2011-07-17T04:48:00.006+01:00

“Is it far to the flatlands?” the young girl asked. Then adding, whilst waving a damp, crumpled map, “We’re lost.” She was leading a ten-strong group of her peers down the footpath below Causey Pike (OS Grid NY 217202). It sounded more like a veiled plea to “beam us out of here” than a statement of fact. Conditions weren’t pleasant at that time, they were tired teenagers, their jangly rucksacks were weighing them down, mobile phones and ipods were but distant memories; they were, in a word - miserable. “Not far.” I said.”And you’re on the right track.” I couldn’t believe there was anything, other than immediate access to a Star Trek Transporter, that would lift their spirits so I wished them good luck, safe in the knowledge that in years to come most of them would smile as they looked back at the great time they’d had in the Lake District. It happens.

Catbells - viewed from below Causey Pike

We, meanwhile, continued up, over and down to Buttermere.

Buttermere, the lake and surrounding area is beautiful. Buttermere, the place, was disappointing. The Bridge Hotel and The Fish Inn get the thumbs down – hospitality is not a word in the vocabulary of those that I encountered who work there. The village campsite didn’t meet expectations either so we gave it a miss. In the event it would probably have been better than the Dale Garth campsite, halfway down the lake, which was even less accommodating, and certainly not as welcoming as you might expect after visiting their website.

It seems such a shame to me that those who have the opportunity to provide hospitality, food and shelter can do so in such a pathetic way and yet the public still pay up. Shame on me then for using the facilities such as they were. We should have walked on and wild camped. I should have heeded Bryn’s advice and “Let it go over my head” as well. Instead, I metamorphosed temporarily into Mr Grumpy. It happens.

Looking toward Haystacks from Buttermere

Gawthwaite - Keswick : 3-5 July 11

2011-07-05T18:22:00.000+01:00

It's not that we were dawdling on our way to Coniston that we were overtaken by so many others, it was because the 'others', over a thousand of them, were running The Lakeland Trails Marathon.

Number One Nephew, Gary, taxied us to Gawthwaite on Sunday morning where we set off along The Cumbria Way which we shared with the marathon runners from Beacon Tarn. For them it was the final leg to the race start/finish at Coniston. A seriously tough run on such a hot day yet most looked impressively (disconcertingly) fresher than us.

We've made our way to Keswick since then where, rejuvenated by what this lovely town has to offer, (which includes Cumbrian Fillet of Rump Steak, mashed potatoes, red cabbage, carrots and peppercon sauce) we reach a turning point. The very hot dry weather has reverted to cooller, wetter conditions, and we change direction to generally southwest to Ravenglass. Next stop Buttermere.

Parkinson's Law

2011-07-02T05:40:00.004+01:00

"Work expands so as to fill the time available for its completion" according to Parkinson's Law. Mr Parkinson was thinking of those AT work rather than those retired when formulating his idea but it seems to me that the adage applies equally to such folk (me) as well. Since returning from Dartmoor last weekend, updating this blog is one of the many things still waiting to be ticked off my Jobs to Do List.

And now I find myself packed and ready to set off again so the update must wait.

I meet up with Number One Son (that's Bryn the first born son - to reassure Number Two Son, Glyn: it's an "age" not a "beauty" numbering system) in Cumbria this evening. Tomorrow, Sunday, we head for the hills. Tarn Hows is the first stop if we make it beyond the pubs at Coniston.

The break from blogging whilst on Dartmoor last week was a bit of a relief - certainly from the frustrations of Blogspot which wasn't working properly; not allowing me full access nor the facilty to leave return comments. Eventually I will have more to say about Dartmoor. It's an area that has captivated me because of it's wide open spaces where, from many places, and with an eye on the weather, you can wander in almost any direction at will. Fantastic. Freedom.

Freedom of access to the blogosphere from my mobile phone when in the Lake District has been restricted in the past so I have no firm, determined plan to blog this coming week. I'll just have to see how accomodating the network is, so no promises. Think of it as an extended break from my wittering.

PS. Thanks to those who commented on my last outing. As I said, Blogspot was giving me hassle.

J: A need for your photographic talents on Dartmoor to portray panoramic views that depict a sense of space and scale. When I get around to my update I will upload an image of Great Links Tor where the 30-40 foot stacks of granite could be mistaken for pebbles.

Dartmoor - Day 2

2011-06-20T20:45:00.000+01:00

I declared myself a "Torist" this morning after bagging Cox Tor, Roos Tor, Great Staple Tor and Vixen Tor on an 8+ mile circular walk from this campsite - Tavistock Camping & Caravan Club Site which is 2+ miles east of Tavistock at OS Grid SX 518747. It's a nice site so it will be my base for the duration.

Then this afternoon I reverted to Tourist mode, mooching & munching my way around Tavistock. Not instantly recognizable with brolly employed instead of a knotted hankie on the bonce.

My week will continue in much the same fashion so I'm selfishly going to concentrate on that and run silent for the rest of the week taking a break from blogging.

Another declaration then: "Gone toring, back on Sunday."

Image: Roos Tor.

Dartmoor - Day 1

2011-06-19T19:52:00.000+01:00

Today's was a simple plan; reveille 04:00, chocks away 05:15, breakfast at daughter and family's house in Surrey (and drop off Holly) at 07:00, head to Devon for lunch, then devise next plan. And here I sit, mission accomplished, in the Grampervan, 330 miles later, at a campsite on the edge of Dartmoor, dogless, poised ready for inaction.

All is well in my world. The lingering taste of the Fry's Chocolate Orange Cream (a Father's Day gift from daughter) is about to be swamped by Courvoisier as I contemplate tomorrow's devilishly simple plan; get up, get ready, go for a walk.

The best plans are the simplest plans.

Image: River Tavy, Tavistock

The Inn Way Northumberland - After

2011-05-21T07:54:00.003+01:00

Easygoing - that's the word that sums up this walk.

Without any ascents (I didn't walk the section that did have ups and downs though) this Inn Way follows well-used, way-marked paths. All the right ingredients were there: scenery, weather, etc, and especially the friendly, cheerful locals - all of which when combined made it the relaxed, enjoyable walk that I'd hoped for.

Rather than risk the description "friendly, cheerful locals" sounding glib, let me emphasise that aspect because the general demeanour of almost everyone that I encountered was noticeably relaxed and friendly - friendliness with a smile, and a local accent that served to compliment it.

A great corner of England this.

It's surprising just how many castles, beautiful beaches and pubs that there are in such a small area. And any one place might have the lot. I will have to return because for me there was never enough time to spend at each castle I passed directly or that was nearby. The beach provides a better alternative route in some places, and you're spoilt for choice when it comes to pubs - I mean, a small place like Wooler for example, has six pubs, plus a holiday camp style pub/venue.

My preference was to spend each night at a B&B but with no accommodation booked except for the first and last nights, I carried camping gear as a back-up. I chose to camp in Wooler though; the lady at the campsite (a five minute walk from the town centre) said that I could choose where to set up, and that only three other pitches (out of 75) were taken that night.

I blogged using my mobile phone, a Nokia 5800, on Virgin Media, as usual. Coverage is not good in the area. Virgin Media utilises T-Mobile's network so I'm hoping that their recent link-up with Orange will be of benefit to Virgin Media users in the future. Orange and Vodaphone seem to rule. The phone has a 3.2 megapixel camera which I used to take all the photos and which were published un-edited.

A fair indicator of any good walk must surely be that it is one that you would walk again. There's no doubt in my mind that I will walk this route again, and at the same pace but with an extra day, or possibly two, to include the portion over the Cheviots that I missed out this time around.

Danny asked me which was the best pub and best beer. There was no one particular favourite among the many good pubs. The Northumberland Arms, West Thirston stood out because of the good crack (craic) - an 84 year old gent at the bar with a bottle of red wine, the perfect barmaid and a most affable landlord. The Sun Inn, Alnmouth on the day was a most pleasant change - good, home-cooked food from a non-standard pub menu - BBQ Kebab on rice with sweet chilli sauce and fresh salad. I liked The Anchor, Wooler - small but comfortable with an arrangement condusive to good chatting, a very genial host, and a lovely lamb hotpot (£8.45). The Black Sheep Bitter was my preferred drink and it was consistently good along the way. As was the walk.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 6

2011-05-17T09:25:00.000+01:00

16 May: Alwinton - Rothbury (14 miles)

Any regrets about not walking the Wooler to Alwinton section of The Inn Way were diminished somewhat when looking back in that direction shortly after setting off from Alwinton. That leg traverses the National Park. I had avoided the higher ground but more to the point, by the looks of it, I'd skirted some unpleasant weather too.

The final day's route echoes the first in that it shadows the River Coquet over fields, through the odd wood and along quiet country roads. Easy stuff this. It still leaves me puffing though. However, after five days walking I just recover more quickly.

Lady's Well (above), south east of Harbottle and a quarter of a mile short of Holystone, is a nice recovery spot. Countless others will have used it before me as it was once a watering place beside the Roman road from Breminium in Redesdale.

I head for home tomorrow, via Hadrian's Wall for a couple of hours lookabout/marchabout, and south Cumbria where I'll collect my dog. I'll round off my thoughts about this enjoyable, short trek in a few days time.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 5

2011-05-15T21:54:00.001+01:00

15 May: Bamburgh - Wooler (16 miles)

It was farewell to the coast today as I headed west, inland, swopping sand for firmer ground. And firm it was - no rain to speak of, so no mud.

I'm into the swing of it now with snacks on-the-go rather than making a meal of it in a pub. A sit down dinner this evening though; lamb hotpot with peas which came with bread and butter. That was in The Anchor, one of five pubs within 100 yards of each other in Wooler town centre.

A consequence of my intentional dawdling is that I'm a day behind the (flexible) schedule. Therefore, I have to miss out a section of the walk in order to return to the start point by tomorrow evening. I have a lift in the morning to Alwinton where I'll walk the final section back to Rothbury. The 20.5 mile trek from Wooler to Alwinton will have to wait until another day. I will return to Northumberland - of that I am sure.

Image: The Black Bull and The Angel Inn, Wooler

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 4

2011-05-15T06:31:00.000+01:00

14 May: Embleton - Bamburgh (11 miles)

It's always satisfying to get away without delay - breakfast at a reasonable time, and no faffing around. Happily, that's how it was this morning. Only 11 miles to my destination but with the BBC doom merchant forecasting heavy, thundery showers later, I didn't want to dawdle today.

The wind direction had changed. The last couple of days I had been partly wind assisted; today I was leaning into it. A local told me that it was the east and north winds that kept most tourists off the beaches.

Lunch was taken at Seahouses - a nice little place with some of the paraphrenalia of a seaside town; amusement arcades, fish & chip shops and the like. A healthy ham salad sandwich in a bakery cafe for me as I sat beside a young man seeing off a Belly Buster Stottie. A stottie is a jumbo size bun the size of a large dinner plate. The Belly Buster is half a stottie filled with sausage, bacon, egg, mushrooms, baked beans and tomatoes. I understand that elsewhere, hot roast beef and gravy stotties are popular. Sounds good but I thought "laters" and went for a half pint of Five Bridges Bitter as a chaser in a pub down the road.

The final three miles today were along a (sorry to go on about the beaches but they are lovely) white, sand beach which lead to the sand dunes below Bamburgh Castle.

It's not until you reach the landward side of the castle that you can appreciate just how big and beautiful the fortress is. It's breathtaking. For once, awesome might be the right word.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 3

2011-05-14T08:51:00.001+01:00

13 May: Alnmouth - Embleton (10 miles)

Sandy beaches, grassy paths, golf courses, a castle and Northumbrian Police 'No Camping' signs featured on today's amble.

On my right, the beaches were almost deserted; on my left the golf links were crowded; and on the path, the centre of my universe, I met other walkers. They were heading in the opposite direction (I don't do overtake) and most have time for a chat which immediately confirms that they are not fleeing from something terrible. Reassured, I reflect positively that a lone walker's walk is not a lonely one.

I like the local accent; softer than the Geordie accent further south, it's friendly, cheerful and engaging. Not always though. Mrs Grumpy Golfer cautioned me from afar today. Stetched out on the seaward side of the path, like a beached whale looking out to sea, my day dreams were angrily interupted by "You can stay there if you want but you could get hit by a golf ball mind!" I swung my rucksack on and lumbered off, thinking only of all the things I could have said.

In the pub this evening, harmony of mind and soul was restored with the passing of time and a little alcohol.

Image: Dunstanburgh Castle (north of Craster) [Using zoom on my phone camera produces out of focus image - or was it too much Black Sheep]

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 2

2011-05-13T09:37:00.000+01:00

12 May: Felton - Alnmouth (13 miles)

A diverse selection of scenery over such a short distance today.

Farmland on the first section, between Felton and Warkworth via Guyzance, changes from livestock to agricultural; sheep and cattle replaced by cereal crops. Between Warkworth and Alnmouth it's coastal with sand dunes, golf courses and a wide, sandy (and today, an almost deserted) beach.

Under foot there are changes too; some country roads, a metalled cycle track and sand - sea water as well if you fancy it.

At walkworth there is a most attactive castle (a chequred history but first built in 1150), an excellent cafe and five pubs - I had time to sample the Jenning's Cumberland Ale in The Black Bull.

There are five pubs in Alnmouth as well although you wouldn't know that there were any if consulting the 1;25,000 map because, strangely, there's no pub symbol shown. They are well and truly there though and I can recommend The Red Lion and The Sun.

Images: Warkworth Castle and Alnworth Bay.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 1

2011-05-11T20:03:00.000+01:00

Subject: The Inn Way Northumberland - Day 1
Date: 12/05/2011 05:43

11 May: Rothbury - Fenton (12 miles)

My day started with an owl and finished with black sheep. It felt like a long day because the owl was hooting at 04:00 and I was up and about soon after - as were the wood pigeons who woke the other birds for choir practice.

I had a half baked plan today - head for the coast. At 17.5 miles distant that was a rather ambitious target for me. I haven't got myself fit for this walk, this being the bump start for fitness training for next month's walk. And it's a holiday, I remind myself, so dawdle if you wish, which I did. And will.

The route east mostly follows that of the St Oswald's Way, through lush countryside where woods are carpeted in bluebells and wild garlic (stinking onions), fields are crowded with sheep still with their lambs, and swallows (or martins) and gulls swoop over the River Coquet (pronounced co-cut) which is never far away.

Lunch at The Anglers Arms, Wheldon Bridge (see image), where I couldn't help but attempt that old favourite "The Railway goes through the middle of the house, the middle of the house ...", a pot of tea at the cafe in Felton, followed by a swift half of Black Sheep Bitter across the river at The Northumberland Arms, West Thirston, led to another, slower one and the realisation (with the clarity conjured up by the magical properties of bitter) that I'd had enough for the day. Walking that is; plenty more Black Sheep where the first two came from.

The Inn Way Northumberland - Before

2011-05-06T07:21:00.008+01:00

There are still a few days before the off but loud and clear in my head it's "Here we go, here we go, here we goooo .... "

"The Inn Way to Northumberland" is one of a series of walks devised by Mark Reid. His guide book (which is being revised, for publication in August this year) describes a 94 mile circular walk from Rothbury. The route follows the Coquet Valley to the sea, heads north along the coast, then west and south to and over the Cheviot Hills. There are lots of watering holes along the way. Lots.

Except for Bed & Breakfast on the first and last night in Rothbury, nothing is fixed or booked. So I will be as free (and possibly as relaxed) as a newt. I'll be carrying a tent and some rations but Northumbrian hospitality, accommodation, food and drinks may prevail.

There I'll go, there I'll go, there I'll goooo ....

Breaking Blogio Silence

2011-05-02T06:59:00.000+01:00

"Great Scot!" (Doc Brown - Back to the Future.) Where did April go?

And what to write when not walking when you've dedicated a blog to only wittering about that subject (walking) - that's the thing!

A gear report can provide a worthy stopgap but with no new kit to speak of, I can't use that ploy. Notes on preparations and planning is permitted but I have been remiss (lazy) in that area. And the return reader will tire of pathetic variations on a theme of "limited to walks of less-than-a-mile because my dog can't manage further in her old age."

That's the situation though. Holly, my elderly Border Terrier, just can't walk far, and I can't bear the thought of leaving her in kennels to allow me off the leash. She is happy with my daughter and family or with my sister and family though, and more to the point, selfishly, I'm happy for her to be with them.

So, I'm very pleased to announce that arrangements have been made that enable me to head north next week. Our needs and my peace of mind will be satisfied when Holly takes it easy at my sister's house in Cumbria and I go walkabout (and drinkabout) in Northumberland.

In June, daughter and family will take care of Holly allowing me a week to cross Dartmoor and Exmoor. After that, in July, sister is on duty again giving me a week in the Lake District.

"If you put your mind to it, you can accomplish anything." (Marty McFly - Back to the Future.)

Tattersett, Norfolk

2011-03-18T07:06:00.004Z

Weathermen/wimin eh! During the course of this week they forecasted: white cloud, then heavy rain, then grey cloud, then heavy rain, for this part of Norfolk today. In the event it's a beautiful, fresh, ever-so-slightly-hazy, spring-like sunny morning (get the picture?). And I'm the only person here at Greenwoods Camping & Caravan Site, Tattersett. Even the owner has legged it.

Lake District - Keswick

2011-03-03T20:03:00.007Z

Today's theme was "Walk Local" - no car, no public transport. So where better than Latrigg again. It's an easy circular walk (same as Monday), sufficient to get my heart working overtime mind, and the confines of Brundholme Wood on the southern slopes contrast nicely with the wide-open grassy summit.

Brundholme Wood - Latrigg

It was Market Day in Keswick which livened the place up a bit - not that it needs enlivening. There's plenty to see, do, eat and drink, and I did all of that.

Keswick - Market Day

So - there's my day gone. My mini-break too; I head south for home tomorrow.

Lake District - Cat Bells

2011-03-02T21:12:00.004Z

Another "touristy" walk today but one that took me a bit further and higher.

Wanting to avoid the walk out of Keswick, I got a lift to my start point at Hawes End (Grid NY 24721 21180). A footpath from the road there zig-zags up to Skelgill Bank, levels briefly then drops slightly before continuing up to the summit of Cat Bells at 1480 feet. The views just keep getting better on the way up which is for about a mile. Although it was hazy this morning or was that the steam coming off me.

Cat Bells from Skelgill Bank

Dropping down to the lake (not literally of course) I followed the lakeside footpath which leads to Keswick and which is a section of The Cumbria Way. I know it well having walked it a couple of times before.

Hot soup for lunch in Keswick left me drowsy rather than rejuvenated. So, acting my age, I had a nap on a park bench - sitting upright, chin on chest (you get the picture daughter).

Years ago, the tell-tale signs of eyes glazing over would have alerted a teacher; Action Stations! Run Silent! Wait (hope) for the head to sag then deliver a salvo of chalk, or deploy a black board duster to bring the lad back to double maths.

Today though, I was left in peace.

Lake District -Walla Crag

2011-03-01T22:06:00.005Z

Returning to my B&B from Keswick town centre at night involves walking along a dimly lit road where cars tend to speed. Wise, longer-lived pedestrians will heed the advice given in safety campaigns and take precautions to be seen at night. A white carrier bag (containing my shopping) did the job for me last night. You can't be too careful. I heard about a chap who took it to the limit - white coat, hat, scarf and gloves; white wellies; a newspaper in one hand and white carrier bag in the other. Sadly, the poor guy was run over by a snow plough.

Looking NW from Walla Crag - Bassenthwaite Lake in the distance, Skiddaw top right

There's still some snow here but it's all on the high hill tops; nothing at the levels that I have reached, which today was just over 1200 feet on a five mile walk over Walla Crag. Heading south from Keswick, there's a short sharp final climb up towards the summit and a very steep, rocky descent.

No speeding cars up there to watch out for but you do have to look carefully at where you put your feet on the way down.

Path down from Walla Crag

Lake District - Latrigg

2011-02-28T18:02:00.007Z

Alfred Wainwright dedicated his book "The Northern Fells" (A Pictorial Guide To The Lakeland Fells - Book 5) to those who travel alone, the solitary wanderers on the fells who find contentment in the companionship of the mountains and of the creatures of the mountains. That'll be me, the solitary wanderer that is, so thanks Mr W. In the book, he describes Latrigg as a grand place, especially for fellwalkers on the retired list. I'm on that list, so thanks for the heads up AW.

Mine was an easy walk today; a circuit of about 6 miles, and then a few laps around Keswick checking out the shops, cafes and pubs. A grand start to a few days in The Lake District.

Keswick & Derwent Water from Latrigg

Norfolk - Day 3

2011-02-04T19:05:00.002Z

Yesterday's militaristic theme continued today with reveille at 06:00 hours, followed almost immediately by a dog patrol in the woods. Normally we just get up and go for a walk. There were no rabbit (or enemy/member of parliament) sightings so I packed and made ready to move out. It's a straight forward affair but I now have a checklist - a short one containing three important actions:

1. Ensure power cable is disconnected.
2. Ensure skylight is closed.
3. Ensure Holly's water bowl (which sits outside the Grampervan when we are in residence) is packed.

All of which, much to my embarrasment and expense, and others' amusment, I have forgotten to carry out on more than one occasion - hence the checklist. As I get older, and if I remember, I may insert "4. Double check that Holly is on board and not outside, still attached to the rear bumper."

"If you ever drive off with her still attached then you won't need to add that to your list!" I hear you say. Well, I've thought about that and as a precaution have considered removing the rear bumper.

After dawn stand-to, ablutions and breakfast rations we moved out to a location nearby, from where we resumed woodland foot patrols. All was quiet with nothing stirring but the tree tops in the strengthening breeze.

We soon tired of the game and set off for home - our 3-day mission accomplished; impatient for the warmer weather backpacking season to arrive, I had been itching to get out and about and this lazy outing has settled me somewhat. Later this month I'll be heading for the Lake District which will be a bit more challenging. I'l be wearing my civi head too.

Norfolk - Day 2, Later

2011-02-03T20:10:00.002Z

Ironic, I thought, as I marched peacefully through the forest, that it should be to the accompaniment of the sounds of war. I was at ease though; the small arms fire and explosions erupting on the nearby military training areas wasn't directed at me, and the RAF Tornadoes roaring overhead only LOOKED fearsome.

What was/is disturbing me though is the government's "consultation" on the sale of forests, and the pathetic cut & paste reply I had received from my MP (picked up as an e-mail on my phone during my forest manoeuvres). None of the questions I had asked him regarding the sale had been answered so I guess, like most with peaceful intentions, I'll have to reluctantly prepare for battle.

Image 1: Topical poster.
Image 2: Snowdrops, for me, signify the real start of the new year.
Image 3: Doggy Hell in Watton.
Image 4: Doggy Heaven in Watton.

Norfolk - Day 2 Morning

2011-02-03T08:17:00.000Z

I'm not keen on Ready Brek for breakfast at home, yet love it when camping/campervaning. Sometimes it's best not to closely examine why you enjoy things - even the smaller issues in life such as Ready Brek. It's best just to enjoy, which I did this morning - twice, with two helpings of hot sweet Ready Brek for breakfast.

That was preceeded by coffee - something else I prefer when outdoors; I start my day with tea at home. Lyons do "Original Blend Fresh Ground Coffee in a One-Cup Bag". Even opening the green foil bag is a joy as the aroma escapes.

We're going to walk along The Peddars Way today. It's an easy to follow straight-line route where I expect to enjoy, but not think too deeply about, the little things.

Norfolk - Day 1

2011-02-02T19:34:00.001Z

I'm at the Camping & Caravan Club's site in Thetford Forest (Grid TL 940924 - 3/4 mile west of Great Hockham) where it's deathly quiet, darkly dark and flat. Very flat.

We wandered around the woods today. More of the same tomorrow, enjoying the flatness.

The Greensand Ridge Walk - 3

2011-01-22T20:57:00.010Z

Katherine's Cross, erected in 1772, commemorates Queen Catherine of Aragon, who was detained in "Ampthill Castle", Bedfordshire, while annulment proceedings of her marriage to King Henry VIII were taking place in 1533.

The monument also marks the spot where Rueben (Grandson) and I completed another section of The Greensand Ridge Walk on this day of 2011. In a not-to-be-forgotten slip of the tongue, Rueben called it The Green Sandwich Walk. It was just over ten miles from where we were dropped off in Haynes to where I'd left the Grampavan in Ampthill.

Early lunch at the derelict St Mary's Church, Clophill

Half a pint and a game of darts at The George, Maulden

The End (Rueben's muddy waterproof trousers)

In my Christmas (Walking) Stocking

2010-12-26T08:30:00.006Z

Confining a blog to wittering about walking limits writing at a time of the year (especially this record-breaking cold, snowy end of the year) when the weather puts me off the longer walks worthy of a report. And it feels like a double whammy when I'm not walking and writing.

However, three items in my Christmas stocking give me the opportunity to break blogio silence; a mini torch, a book and a gas lighter.

The Maglite Solitaire, a one AAA cell torch (about 25 grams without its presentation box) isn't a serious walks torch but it'll bring the weight of my pack down next summer. Or, possibly on serious walks, it could be a useful addition at night, back from the pub, at the tent looking for my bigger torch.

Anything that improves my navigation skills has to be welcomed. Skimming through the pages of Finding Your Way Without Map or Compass (Harold Gatty, originally published in 1958), Chapter 4 caught my eye; Walking in Circles - I've been pretty good at that already.

The Silverpoint Jet Flame Lighter is like a mini blow torch. I like the blurb on the pack - "Burns at any angle". I can confirm that that is true; lighting candles around the house was never easier. Candles can of course be carried in a backpack as emergency lighting (for a light refreshment too - sorry, couldn't resist that). It's a solid, heavy thing that feels very comfortable and nice to hold. I think this lighter will find a more permanent place in my camper van.

Test - Memory Map Image

2010-11-27T09:33:00.004Z

Test to show a memory map image from my PC.

North York Moors. 1:25,000 scale. Blue overlay adjacent to route taken. Click image to enlarge.

No Moor Today

2010-11-20T06:49:00.009Z

It was tempting to stay a while longer in Yorkshire but my new found freedom is not so great yet to allow excursions on a whim without regard to the simpler things that must be done at home. Plus, my prayer, which had been answered, had been for four days fair weather - it was fair for November given that there had been no rain during daylight hours. So best not to stretch my fortune.

It was a foggy return journey though, the North South Divide on Friday being where the Sun broke through nearer home.

Back to daydreaming about long distance walks now with no excuse for lack of time to prepare the body to do them.

Levisham Moor - Again

2010-11-19T05:07:00.000Z

There are more Duchy of Lancaster No Parking signs in Goathland than anyone could point a walking pole at. So, unable to find a decent spot to leave the Grampervan close enough to today's objective - Two Howe Rigg, just south of Goathland, I returned to what has become my forward operating base - Saltergate Car Park on the A169. Ryedale District Council's sign, unlike the aforesaid pesky Duchy's signs, welcomes all. And a particular benefit at this time of the year is that there aren't many "all".

Cross over the road and be not careful and you will fall into The Hole of Horcum! (I must remember that one to frighten the kids or put a curse on a Duchy).

We were careful and made it to the bottom of the hole, then along it, up and around the other side of it. You'll just have to look at the map to see the easy route we took.

I wouldn't like to guess which is the oldest - the bridleway running generally north east from Levisham and partly alongside The Hole (the very same that we trod yesterday) or the dikes that abut it. However, the dikes were constructed about 2000 years ago. In awe, silenced and humbled, I took shelter there, reverently, trying to take in the enormity of two--thousand--years! Which was very tiring so I polished off my cheese sandwiches and hot chocolate.

Levisham Moor

2010-11-18T05:10:00.001Z

Walking across Levisham Moor today (Wednesday), I was reminded of Max Miller (the celebrated comedian, Cheeky Chappie) and his story regarding Albert, a farmer, ploughing a field when his plough broke. Wondering what to do, and desperate to finish the job he thought; "I know. I'll drive down to Joe's farm - he'll lend me his plough." So off he went on his tractor.
After a while Albert had second thoughts; "What if Joe is using his plough? Then this will have been a wasted journey." (A worrier, Albert.) "Still, best to give it a go." he decided, continuing.
A while later he had more doubts; "Joe's a fussy one. Cautious to lend me the plough, he might say his is broken too." "Well I'm half way there now so I might as well carry on."
Further on and further doubts; "Maybe he just won't want to help me out. Joe can be that way at times." Nevertheless, he drove on.
Then, shortly before arriving, Albert thought; "There's no way that Joe is going to lend me his plough. He's always been that sort."
Arriving at the farm, it was Joe that answered the door, but before he could say a word, Albert shouted; "Well you know what you can do with your bl*!dy plough!" and stormed off.

My version and telling of that joke won't, of course, do justice to the way the great Max Miller told it. But it was brought to mind because, like Albert, I didn't know if I would get what I wanted when I arrived at my destination - The Horseshoe Inn at Levisham in my case. It all depended upon whether or not dogs were allowed on the premises, and I hadn't checked beforehand.

Dogs are allowed in and we both got a very friendly welcome. Holly had a rest by the fire and I got the hot soup and half a pint of Black Sheep Bitter that I had hoped for. Then we returned across the moor on a dry but very windy day to the Saltergate Car Park on the A169, me wondering what to worry about next.

Pictures: The Hole of Horcum; Dundale Pond near Levisham.

Hazelhead Moor

2010-11-17T06:02:00.001Z

There was a look in Holly's eye, as I got ready for a night out in downtown Thornton-le-dale, that said "I'll stay. Bring me something back pLLease" but I ignored it. On this cold, dank, foggy (Tuesday) evening few would want to venture out but I could see her stretched out by the log fire at The Buck Hotel. And so we went and she comandeered the hearth.

Earlier today we'd left the Grampavan at the Saltergate Carpark - beside the A619 overlooking the Hole of Horcom (as the crow flies, about 6.5 miles NNE of T-le-Dale) whilst we walked a 4 mile circuit of Hazelhead Moor.

It's not a high moor but sufficiently so to be above today's mist, which lingered all day in some areas, and to keep us in bright sunlight. We had fine views from the bridleway which runs along Saltergate Brow in an overall north eastern direction to Whinny Nab and down to the Malo Cross. A footpath goes south from there to a track which connects with Old Wifes Way. That heads northwest and back to the A169.

I can see all that on my Memory Map device. I have yet to work out if and how to reproduce the image here - the way that others do so admirably on their blogs. Laters though, when it's warmer.

Pictures: Blakey Topping from Whinny Nab; Malo Cross

Thornton-le-Dale

2010-11-16T07:37:00.003Z

We spent the night on a railway line - well, a dismantled one which is now a small caravan site on the southern outskirts of Thornton-le-Dale, which itself is on the southern boundary of The North York Moors National Park. A level pitch in a quiet spot, 16 Amp mains electricity and four nights for the price of three persuaded me to make this my base.

A later than planned departure and delays along the way left little time to explore in daylight. Holly had a quick dip in the stream that runs through the village, she no doubt wondering why I opted for a hot shower later.

Monday evening is not a good time for the traveller looking for dinner here. One (The Buck Hotel) of the two pubs I passed doesn't do food on Mondays, the other's (The New Inn - which advertises that it welcomes dogs) kitchen is closed for a fortnight, the several tea rooms shut shop early and the Chip Shop/Cafe doesn't open Mondays - (that used to be a sign of a good chip shop, along with queues, so good news perhaps). Another pub/hotel - The Hall Inn does not admit dogs.

So, we dined in, and I got into Ken Follett's "The Pillars of the Earth", a book that I have been saving for this trip. The opening line - "Nothing happens the way you plan it".

On A Whim And A Prayer

2010-11-12T07:31:00.008Z

As I suspected and hoped, retirement is freedom; freedom, amongst other things, to choose if and when to do something. And so, I'm off to Yorkshire on Monday for a few days on a whim and a prayer.

The whim is in the going and the prayer is a common enough English one - for fair weather. Yes, I know it's November but nothing ventured nothing gained.

We're an ageing threesome. Officially, I'll be a Pensioner next year. Holly my 11 year old Border Terrier is probably one now in dog years and the Grampervan (my J Reg, VW T4 Campervan) looks like one.

We are raring to go though. And, no matter if the prayer isn't answered in full. A fresh wind and sleety rain should blow and wash away the cobwebs, and work up a healthy thirst and appetite. Our first stop is Thornton-le-Dale where it is said there are three pubs and a fish and chip shop.

Holly

The New Term - 2

2010-10-30T05:42:00.012+01:00

Well, we made it to Coniston on Tuesday where I introduced Tara and Rueben to the Black Bull rather than the Old Man. It seemed to me that a walk to the summit of The Old Man of Coniston in non-stop rain wouldn't endear my grandchildren to The Lake District.

Lunch at The Black Bull, Coniston

We meet the locals

Tara prepares desert while Rueben relaxes

Teenagers' bedroom Day 1

On Thursday morning we walked around Ulverston including Hoad Monument

Ulverston

Not quite the walking holiday that we had hoped for but we were agreed that it was an enjoyable way to spend half-term.

Disagreements with teenagers regarding what to wear in wet weather and what time to get up in the morning were easily settled. Compromise and truce do not work. The grandfather must accept unconditional surrender.

The New Term - 1

2010-10-24T06:34:00.004+01:00

According to the BBC this morning, it will be sunny in Coniston on Tuesday 26th October. I hope that the forecasters are proved right about that; I'm taking two of my grandchildren, Tara and Rueben, to The Lake District and Tuesday is pencilled in for a climb up The Old Man of Coniston - T&R's first mountain. I don't anticipate problems if it rains whilst we are out walking but getting the beds off their back if it's pouring outside won't be pleasant. And it is a holiday. Not my normal walking holiday though.

Monday we drive up there, Tuesday walking, Wednesday partying, Thursday shopping, Friday home. Plan B, a wet weather programme, is that activities on Tuesday and Thursday can be transposed. A compromise (an unbelievably hard one for me to bear) is that T&R can sleep in on Wednesday and Thursday.

For the children it will be a half-term holiday.

For me it's an end-of-term holiday.

I joined the ranks of the retired this month and can now look forward to a new term where there is more time to do the things that I would like to do rather than must do.

The Greensand Ridge Walk - 2

2010-09-20T15:26:00.018+01:00

Tara, Rueben and I walked another section of The Greensand Ridge Walk yesterday - from Haynes to Sandy, here in Bedfordshire. There were more than enough ingredients to make it an enjoyable day out:

Blackberries

An early birthday present for Rueben

Whittling
Peashooter

Conkers

Multitasking (peeling potatoes whilst walking along The Greensand Ridge)

The Greensand Ridge Walk - 1

2010-09-06T22:51:00.012+01:00

Taking the quote, attributed to Lao Tzu, at face value and ignoring any deeper meaning that "A good traveller has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving" may have, and applying it to backpacking is a frame of mind that I aspire to. And it was a condition that I came close to on Sunday thanks to two of my grandchildren - Tara (age 13 this month) and Rueben (12 next month).

They had asked if they could go walking and camping with me so we went on a one-day outing as an introductory test walk at the weekend. They passed with flying colours, covering the five miles effortlessly and, more importantly, clearly enjoyed being outdoors without focussing on getting to our destination, or as Lao Tzu put it "not intent on arriving". It was a salutary lesson for me - something that they did naturally and that I will have to work at to achieve. It's going to be a delight when we go further afield.

On Sunday though, we walked from Woburn to Eversholt and back. It's a section of The Greensand Ridge Walk - a forty mile route from Leighton Buzzard in Bedfordshire to Gamlingay, Cambridge -shire. For Tara and Rueben there was no urgent need to get to Eversholt where refreshments at The Green Man were a draw for me. They found plenty to explore and see along the way which is mostly over the grounds of Woburn Abbey.

We have now voted to do the whole route eventually, covering some of it in both directions. Our next section is likely to be from Haynes to Sandy - a walk of seven and a half miles as it happens. But that won't be important to Tara and Rueben I'm pleased to say. For them it'll be another day out and a few steps closer to backpacking and camping.

Coast to Coast 2010 - After

2010-08-27T05:16:00.004+01:00

If you have read my posts then you will have gathered that my enjoyment of this particular walk was enhanced by the folk that I met along the way. So I'd like to emphasise that aspect as a final note rather than witter on about my kit etc.

Camaradarie grows from the outset on Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk, as does the friendly banter and laughter which arises from shared events and experiences. That was my enjoyable overall experience and I think it will have been for the thousands before me and will be for those yet to follow. So for those reasons, I would recommend this walk. But of course there are many other things that contribute - the scenery, the challenge, and so on. And there is space sufficient for solitude for lengthy periods.

If I have a regret then it is that I didn't carry a pebble. There is a tradition of carrying a stone, taken from the shore of the Irish Sea at St Bees, which can be flung into the North Sea upon arrival at Robin Hood's Bay. I didn't quite see the point (I can be a right face ache at times). But on reflection I wish I had, although undoubtedly for the wrong reason. It occured to me that should a new civilisation, similar to ours, evolve millions of years from now, after an apocalypse say, then it would give me some satisfaction to expire with the thought that those interested in such matters in a far distant future might for ever wonder how stones from one side of the country got to the other side. No one would ever conclude that people just "did it" in the way that others might have just "done it" when constructing the mysterious Nine Standards Rigg.

So, for enjoyment and mischief, I'll be doing the walk again, and carrying a brick of course.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 15

2010-08-20T06:02:00.002+01:00

Grosmont to Robin Hood's Bay - 19 Aug

Leaving the B&B in Grosmont, the owner said considerately, "Take your time up that hill." Thirty minutes later I realised just how considerate he had been. It was a breathtaking start to the day, but a climb, I noted with satisfaction, that would have taken me twice as long had it been on the first day of the walk rather than the last.

The plan had been to consider camping at Priory Farm overnight despite it's appalling reviews. But Bryn, aware of my concerns, had secretly booked a B&B. Revealing the secret at camp breakfast that morning was a great and welcome surprise.

It felt as if we had completed The Coast to Coast when we reached the cliff top above the North Sea. But really it ended with celebrations in The Wainwright's Bar, by the shore in Robin Hood's Bay.

To especially: the lovely family of five from London who, impressively camped every night; Anthony a really nice guy who, remarkably, completed the walk after most complicated heart surgery; Markus & Andrea, a very special couple from Germany; Jane & Mark, who led the flock over Kidsty Pike; Bryn, who put up with my teasing; and the many others for contributing to my (almost total) enjoyment of The Coast to Coast Walk - Thank you!

That's it for now but I'll post a final piece next week, when my kit is washed and packed ready, hopefully for another walk as good as this one.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 14

2010-08-19T06:05:00.001+01:00

Blakey Ridge to Grosmont - 18 Aug

Our tents and nerves were severely tested last night. I'm accustomed to the Terra Nova Laser Competition tent flapping about somewhat in the wind but it was gusting almost gale force ovenight and accompanied by driving rain.

I'm zipped in three times: sleeping bag, inner and outer tent, so the prospect of trying to get out should the tent come down kept me awake.

The tent is truly excellent though. I should have known that of course, but last night's experience has left me completely reassured of that fact. I use the pole hood, Bryn doesn't. Both tents were still totally secure in the morning, waking to a bright fresh morning, having dropped off eventually.

Bryn made the coffee. I made the porridge. The pub opens the door at 07:30 for campers to use the facilities and we were off soon after, others waiting for breakfast from 08:30.

Yet another fine walk; roads and tracks, high up over spacious moorland, giving way eventually to famland and settlements.

Another great walk. You should try it.

Image: View from Glaisdale Moor.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 13

2010-08-18T21:46:00.003+01:00

Osmotherley to Blakey Ridge (The Lion Inn)

A major part of today's walk is one I have walked many times before because it follows The Cleveland Way for most of its course. In fine weather it's a fantastic walk. I could fill this blog describing it and still not do it justice. It's a tough rollercoaster journey though and for the Coast to Coaster heading for Blakey Ridge, it's a long one of twenty miles. It took us ten hours.

The only thing of note at Blakey Ridge is the pub - The Lion Inn. Regrettably though, it's a sad note; it isn't a pub that I would recomnend to anyone. The beer was first class but the service is indifferent, the building scruffy and the food disgusting. Sorry, but it had to be said.

Coast to Coasters can camp on the field adjacent to the pub, which is what we did, And that is where we chose to eat having cooked our own dinner.

In all though, a great day.

Image 1: Dinner at Blakey Ridge.
Image 2: Roseberry Topping - the pimple on the horizon (not sure if image quality allows, but the North Sea is visible on the horizon).

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 12

2010-08-17T05:47:00.003+01:00

Danby Wiske to Osmotherly - 16 Aug

We were up early this morning, other campers rising soon after. I like the atmosphere; nods and grins to each other, across the field, as we quietly go about the business of packing up. Bryn and I enjoy coffee for breakfast followed by porridge and fruit. Our porridge is a 40 gram pre-packed mix each of Ready Brek with a teaspoon of sugar and a tablespoon of Coffee Mate. Combined with hot water to a consistency fit to eat it out of a mug with a spoon, it's a decent, convenient meal.

We have had more level and easy walking today, across farmland (arable and livestock), and along lovely enclosed country lanes (see image), as well as quiet country roads.

One highlight of our day was joining The Cleveland Way - a National Trail that Bryn and I have walked before. Daughter came with us once too, so special memories are revisited as we walk that section. Today we used it in the opposite direction though as a link to reach Osmotherly, just off the route of The Coast to Coast, where we tucked into fish and chips, washed down with Black Sheep Bitter.

We stay in the village tonight at a luxury b&b (Vane House) where we have been able to dry our tents and have hot showers. We're hoping for a good sleep tonight before heading toward Blakey Ridge in the morning. Our simple plan is to camp wild on the moors or in the field behind The Lion Inn.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 11

2010-08-16T17:43:00.001+01:00

Richmond to Danby Wiske - 15 Aug

The whole community had turned out to greet us and the band was playing when we arrived at Danby Wiske. It was a party atmosphere on a hot summer's day, around the green next to the pub. Truly.

Well, all true except for the bit about greeting us. The inabitants of the very small hamlet were celebrating the new landlord and lady's first anniversary at The White Swan, rather than our arrival. Nevertheless, we received a very friendly, well oiled welcome.

There's a well maintained camping field at the back of the pub with a decent, modern toilet and shower (50 pence pieces), outdoor hot water washing sink and clothes line, nicely mown level lawn where tent pegs can be easily driven into the ground. It's quiet too, if you are as lucky as we were with considerate Coast to Coasters either side of us.

There is little food on offer in the pub. However, you can order a takeaway (Chinese, Indian or pizza, to be delivered) and the landlady, who will offer you the menus and the use of their phone, will lay a table for you. Breakfast is available to order too.

Oh - the walk! An easy, enjoyable14 miles along well beaten paths and quiet country roads. Just what I needed with minimal navigation, leaving more time to chat with Bryn.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 10

2010-08-15T06:52:00.001+01:00

Reeth to Richmond - 14 Aug

Any regular reader of this blog will be aware that I rarely describe routes in detail. I leave that to the experts who publish guide books. Despite the obvious benefits, I am not carrying one having judged each of the many too heavy an item for my pack.

I have read two regarding the Coast to Coast - Paul Hannon's and Alex Steadman's, and browsed through others. However, I do not recall any that mention, nay more, highlight - a growing feature of this walk that sets it apart from any other national type trail that I have completed - the social side; meeting and sharing the experience with others along the way. It's quite incredible and adds temendously to enjoyment of the journey, and I should like to add, whatever the weather.

Today's walk was in glorious weather. Probably the easiest section of the C2C at 11 miles in a leisurely four hours, passing the time of day with Coast to Coasters along the way and at the end of it in Richmond.

And one of my sons, Bryn, arrived safely this evening to walk with me over the next five days and join the party in The Wainwright's Bar in Robin Hood's Bay next week.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 9

2010-08-14T12:08:00.002+01:00

Keld to Reeth - 13 Aug

I was chuffed to have my porridge, fruit and coffee during a dry spell and to have got away just before the rain started again, day dreaming about bacon butties.

After easy walking alongside or above the River Swale, the dream came true at Gunnerside where there is the most fantastic restaurant that welcomes bedraggled walkers. Full marks and five gold stars to the Ghyllfoot Penny Farthing Restaurant for their Yorkshire Tea, Bacon Sandwich and service. I could live there.

Reeth was almost as welcoming. The weather still decidedly not so though. Therefore, reminding myself that I am in holiday, and not wimping out, I chose a B&B (lots of vacancies) rather than the campsite, but as a token, and because it was miserable out, dined in, having Drytech's Cod and Potato Casserole (Torskegryte). Absolutely delicious! I could live on it. Well bacon butties too, mugs of steaming tea and ...

Richmond tomorrow. A very special day. Son Bryn joins me for the five day walk to Robin Hood's Bay. Good on yer Bryn.

Image: River Swale

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 8

2010-08-14T11:07:00.002+01:00

Kirkby Stephen to Keld - 12 Aug

The guide books describe three routes over Hartley Fell, and on-site notices request walkers to avoid particular paths depending upon the season to allow the surface to recover - it's a boggy place. I chose my own route, partly, following a wall south to emerge onto the road near the county boundary, my feet dry and boots fairly clean.

Upon entering North Yorkshire, I received rapturous applause in the form of great rolls of thunder. I had seen the wall of rain heading toward me, and those nearby, blasting away at grouse on the first day of the shooting season, may have wondered why my sudden sprint until, if still watching, they observed me get the boundary photo I was intent on before the heavens opened.

Coast to Coast gossip has it that the shooters pay £37,000 for the privilege. Judging by all the quality cars in a full layby, the parties that I saw would be able to afford it.

I'd been pleased to see signs along the approach to Keld encouraging walkers to spend the night at Keld Bunkhouse, which is also a campsite. This was a camping night for me so I was drawn there, arriving at 3 o'clock. No food or drink till 6 o'clock, no sense that the lady I spoke to wanted my custom, and worries that the overcrowded site so close to the beck might be noisy and midge infested, I continued to Park Farm, in Keld proper where there is a campsite (Rudkins) and Tea Room.

I spent the night on a quiet pitch. Keld Lodge, the coverted YHA, was a short stroll away away where there was good Coast to Coaster company, food and beer.

There were only five other tents on the site (The farm has two sites - one, mine, is next to decent public conveniences and was midge free - not many level pitches though. The other busier site is adjacent to the Tea Room, closer to the showers/toilets and beck/midges). My neighbours were a backpacking couple - the first that I have met that are, like me, carrying everything. All others are using one of the using the luggage carrying sevices.

Image: View from the "higher" Rudkins Campsite.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 7

2010-08-11T18:52:00.001+01:00

Orton to Kirby Stephen - 11 Aug

Today's was a lovely amble in near perfect walking conditions. Along quiet country roads, following well-beaten tracks over lush meadows where sheep and cattle graze, across open moor and grassland where horses roam, encountering few human passers-by along the twelve to thirteen mile route.

I love the limestone country with its weathered craggy outcrops and sun-bleached dry stone walls.

There was no sight of any other Coast to Coaster en route but I bumped into the young German Coast to Coasters, Markus & Andrea, in Kirby Stephen and we had a beer together.

All's well in my world.

Image: Smardale Viaduct - from Smardale Fell.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 6

2010-08-11T17:55:00.002+01:00

Shap to Orton - 10 Aug

A relaxed start today for a walk that was short and easy when compared with yesterday's; over sixteen miles then, about eight today.

The route was across rolling farmland and open moors where the heather will be in full bloom soon. It's probably waiting for the sun as we Coast to Coasters are.

Priorites are changing - the route, food and shelter are what the days are about. What day and which - fourth? fifth? - it doesn't come readily. But time enough to get to know a few other Coast to Coasters as our paths cross, walking together occasionally, passing or being overtaken.

In the pub at Orton this evening, I had dinner with Anthony from London. I'd first met him at Angle Tarn on Day whatever. We sat next to Markus & Andrea from Germany who I walked most of today with. Jane & Mark from London, who led the way over Kidsty Pike, joined us. A happy, slightly scruffy crew swopping news of other Coast to Coasters ahead or behind us. I was in good company, washing down steak pie with Jennings Cumberland Ale. All saddened though by the cautionary sight through the pub window of a two chaps getting into their lift home - the scuttlebut being that one had injured his knee.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 5

2010-08-10T21:26:00.001+01:00

Patterdale to Shap - 9 Aug

You can see Kidsty Pike in the distance on a clear day from The Greyhound at Shap. As I sipped a pint of orange squash and a half pint of Cumberland Ale I was pleased to be looking at that hill, of which the summit is the highest point on The Coast to Coast, from where I was sat rather than the other way round.

I had left Patterdsale at 08:45 and it had taken me three hours to reach the summit, slowed by driving rain and swirling cloud. Visibility was down to fifty yards or less so no chance that spirits might be lifted by the views and not the conditions in which to linger occasionally; it was a day to press on to keep warm. It took an hour to drop down to Haweswater, where I joined other Coast to Coasters, huddled against a wall in the wood, for my Corned Beef & Pickle sandwich, and mug of hot chocolate which I boiled up on the spot and which I shared with Jane & Mark - Coast to Coasters from London with whom I had walked over the Pike with.

In all, it took nine hours to reach The Greyhound, including the twenty minutes or so it takes to walk the length of Shap. Its a tough walk.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 4

2010-08-09T06:54:00.002+01:00

Grasmere to Patterdale - 8 Aug.

It made a great change to set off in fine weather this morning, and for a walk where there are alternative routes along the way. The first choice was at Great Tongue where I turned north east . Both paths reconnect just short of Grizedale Tarn. Another decision needs to be made at the tarn's northern end. I chose NE again, climbing over St Sunday Crag into the clouds emerging along Birks to fantastic views over Ulswater.

Grasmere to Patterdale is about eight miles. It's a journey that would have been a struggle for me on Day 1. Today though, my recovery rate is significantly improved and going "upstairs" for an hour or two is much easier too. Amazing.

I'm hoping that the magic will continue as it is a long day tomorrow; sixteen and a half miles or so to Shap where I leave The Lake District but will be tempted to turn back. There's great walking here as well as good beer (Patterdale Choice Bitter today) and friendly walkers with whom to pass the time of day with.

Image: Ulswater, from Birks.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 3

2010-08-08T06:41:00.002+01:00

Stonethwaite to Grasmere - 7 Aug

The Stonethwaite Campsite is basic; cold water only, and toilets that satisfy the planning authority's requirements for the building's outside appearance rather than the needs of those that use the facilities inside it. The lady at the farm suggested I find a pitch at the near end. "There are noisy people the other end." she said, as she took my fiver. It was fairly quiet except for the sound of gushing becks, and rain which forced an early night for all.

It was a long haul up Stonethwaite Fell. Higher up, the bridleway is hard to pick out but cairns mark the way which I thought a blessing until I twigged that I was still going up when I should have been heading down; I'd followed the cairns of another, higher, trail to Brown Rigg Moss. No colour coding up here.

Regaining the bridleway, the surface of it down to Grasmere is precarious until it levels off.

When planning this walk my intention had been to B&B in Grasmere but failing to find one available my Plan B was to wild camp at Grizedale Tarn. Arriving in Grasmere after a fairly tough eight miles, I was surprised and pleased to note the "Vacancies" signs and so was able to revert to Plan A.

A bed tonight, a shower, a room with kit strung up to dry and food and drink in abundance. And WIFI!There has been no Virgin Media network coverage since leaving St Bees. None here either. Vodaphone, O2 and Orange rule in Grasmere.

Image: Looking back down the Fell to Stonethwaite.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 2

2010-08-07T22:22:00.002+01:00

Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite - 6 Aug

The first eight miles or so of today's walk was on the level, alongside Ennerdale Water then due east on a forest track to Black Sail Hut where they have a brew kit to make yourself a hot drink. From there it's a hard climb before the drop to Honistor Pass and further down to Borrowdale. A total of about sixteen and a half miles.

I'm well and truly in the Lake District now.

The highlight of the day though wasn't the scenery or an event, it was a person - Diana. She runs The Fox & Hounds at Ennerdale Bridge. As well as being the perfect host, she tends the bar, cooks the food and delivers it to the table. And she looks after everyone. Thanks Diana from me and the other Coast to Coasters at The F&H on Thursday night and Friday morning.

Image is view down to Honister Hause.

Coast to Coast 2010 - Day 1

2010-08-07T14:34:00.001+01:00

St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge - 5 Aug.

It was an RAF Tornado that woke me this morning, or so I thought until I realised that its engine roar was not receeding into the distance, so it had to be a Harrier, hovering. It was neither. I was a wide awake now. Peering through the curtains I could see that it was thundereous rain, shed loads of the stuff, happily on the other side of the double glazing.

The double glazing of a lovely room in an excellent guest house in St Bees; The Tomlin Guest House which I can highly recommend. "Early breakfast?" "Yes. At what time?" So enabling an early start, and in fine weather, the dawn downpour having moved on or spent.

It's a low level walk to Ennerdale Bridge except for the inappropriately named Dent (1000 ft approx); "Bump" or "Lump" would be more fitting. It's a simple haul up to the summit but a fright awaits on the other side. The descent to Nannycatch Beck is worryingly steep.

All in all though, an enjoyable walk. To be rounded off shortly with lamb chops, washed down with Jennings Bitter here at The Fox and Hounds. Then into a routine of early to bed, especially tonight as I make the most of a soft mattress and crisp sheets. I'll camping out for the next three nights.

Pic 1 is Dent from the outskirts of Moor Row & Pic 2 is from Dent looking NW - Cleator, Moor Row with Irish Sea beyond (if image quality allows you to see that detail).

Coast to Coast 2010 - Before

2010-08-03T20:31:00.004+01:00

I head north today - by road and rail to St Bees in Cumbria. It's the well-advertised start of Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk and where I will begin to find out what all the fuss is about. With the odd diversion on his route and if all goes according to plan then I should arrive Robin Hood's Bay in Yorkshire 15 days later.

The extra comforts in my pack have pushed its weight up. A better sleeping bag, a pillow, a little thingy to sit on, more washing kit, even a full gas cylinder - it all adds up to 21lbs. Leaving my camera at home helps balance the extras so I will have to rely on my phone for pictures. It is fixed since my last trek so I am blog-enabled!

Body and signal strength willing and available I should be able to post the occasional update.

Chocs away!

Lake District - 21-23 July 2010

2010-07-28T07:28:00.012+01:00

The weather changed for the better during the second half of my trek so I made it to the top of Skiddaw and back to Keswick on a fine, dry Tuesday. That was a clear day too which provided for fantastic views. It was very hard work though - 8 miles from the town centre and back which took me six and a half hours, including a 20-30 mins lunch break on the summit and a lot of breathers on the way up and down.

Skiddaw (3054 ft but it felt like more)

My path from Gawthwaite to Keswick had been along The Cumbria Way. The rest of the walk to Maryport, via Bassenthwaite where the Sun Inn pub is attractive, the beer decent and the food not so (I would not recommend the Steak in Ale Pie), was in glorious weather and by way of The Allerdale Ramble which is shown on the OS 1:25,000 map.

The camp site near the village of Bassenthwaite was surprisingly quiet. Mainly statics, there were a couple of tourers and two, maybe three groups camping out of cars. I was the only backpacker and I set up near the washroom/toilet/shower block. At £6.00, it was a better stopover for me than the Great Langdale National site.

Stylish stile north of Cockermouth

The aim had been to walk hard in preparation for the Coast to Coast which I start next week. I'm certainly better prepared except that my knees still hurt and I'm not sure why. I'm not entirely sure why I am walking the C2C either but think it is more about doing it to have an opinion on it and as a challenge. Walks over 10 miles (in the Lake District) demand a lot of me so the C2C will put me to the test.

There will be some changes to my kit for future walks.

I realised last year that my Snugpak Softie 6 sleeping bag was not for me but I made do. It's warm enough but I feel too restricted in a mummy shaped bag to get a good night's sleep. I'm expecting a much improved slumber and sweeter dreams in my new Golite Adventure 1+Season Semi-Rectangular where I can move around in the bag rather than with it.

There'll be more to say about the Golite sleeping bag and other additions to my kit (including an Icebreaker merino wool polo shirt and the Pico Solar Charger) in the near future.

Terra Nova Pegs "parked" in old Biros so that they won't pierce anything when packed

I'll be camping and B&B-ing later next week. I have no place booked to stay, or even in mind, in Grasmere so I may change that part of the route to avoid that fair town. I'm not sure about the blogging either because my phone is still to be sorted. A bit like me all-round really.

Lake District - 17-20 July 2010

2010-07-20T09:26:00.010+01:00

In the movie Blade Runner, it never stops raining. It's been like that here in the Lake District since Saturday morning. Harrison Ford isn't around nor the doomed Rutger Hauer and it's not perpetually twilight as well so I suppose it's not really like the movie at all. Except in the movie no one moans about the rain and I haven't heard anyone complain about it around here either. In fact only positive comments - "At least it's not cold!" etc. The true British spirit lives on.

I'm in Keswick now and it is catch-up time with my blog. My phone isn't working fully and until now there has been no network coverage anyway.

Saturday - I set off from Gawthwaite, on the southern boundary of the Lake District, for a 10 mile walk to Coniston along route of The Cumbria Way. Stair rods of rain greeted my arrival in Coniston where the shorn sheep, which are daubed in a fetching splash of blue, ignore my calls of "Come on you blue~ues!". A couple of pints of Coniston Bluebird, a plate of Fish and Chips and a decent B&B completed my day.

Beacon Tarn

Sunday - A 13 mile paddle to Dungeon Ghyll, where radio reception is nigh on impossible let alone network coverage, and where the sheep are wearing SO last year's colour of red, and where lamb is on the menu at The New Hotel but with no hint of whether it is from from the Blue or the Red Tribe.

Monday - The plan was to make my way over Stake Pass to Stonethwaite (7-8 miles?) where I could recce Borrowdale prior to my visit next month, but the campsite there was already waterlogged, the rain unabated, the pub closed (on Mondays), a Tea Room closed, so I carried on to Keswick not bothering what colour the sheep were. Derwent Water was filling up and my intended stopover on the campsite there didn't look too appealing and campers were being asked to move away from the lake. Given that I was a day ahead of my schedule, I booked into a very comfortable B&B. Then having dined, drank and dried out had a warm dry night's kip.

Tuesday - Here I am scribbling furiously before my 30 min stint in an Internet Cafe runs out. Then I'm off for a cuppa before walking up to the top of Skiddaw and back.

Wednesday - I'm heading north to the Bassenthwaite - Cockermouth area, Thursday to Maryport where I can get the train south on Friday.

Not sure about any internet access for the remainder of the week.

Afterthought - Rutger Hauer's expiry in Blade Runner gets my nomination for best ever movie death:

"I have seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the Shoulder of Orion. I watched C-Beams glitter ....... All those moments will be lost in time, like tears in the rain. Time to die."
It was still raining at the time.

Corrymoor Socks

2010-07-10T15:56:00.007+01:00

I'm not as fit as I was this time last year. I've been eating for England so most of the weight I'd shed in 2009 is back and visible. There was always an excuse or a reason why I couldn't make it to the gym so I'm not as bendy as before either. Therefore, as well as the extra weight, I'm carrying some apprehension - unsure of what I'll be capable of during a week of backpacking in the Lake District.

Next Saturday I make my way from Ulverston to Coniston along the first leg of The Cumbria Way. I have a B&B booked for that first night then I have another six days with my backpack, stomachpack and a slightly bulging rest of me. There is no schedule at the moment other than to get to Coniston, have a pint and see how I feel. It might take a second pint of Bluebird Bitter before I conceive a plan which may include having a third.

I don't think my feet could be classified as fat but I do get swollen ankles occasionally. Consequently, tight fitting socks (which most seem to be these days) can be problematic. I may have that issue under control now though as I have successfully test walked a pair of Corrymoor Gentle-Top socks. The short, lightweight socks, which are 55% mohair and 45% nylon, have elastic free tops. The material has a slightly "hard" feel to it; a cotton-like texture but wooly with excellent wicking properties. I'm using the large size and they fit comfortably over my Bridgedale Coolmax Liners, over my size 9 feet in size 10 boots.

Prodnose: "I can't believe you're blogging about socks for Gawdsake! Are you on commission or something?"

Brian: "Shove off! I choose what to say on my blog!"

They are not whiffy after prolonged use on my plates either. I've worn them unwashed over a five day period, in hot dry conditions - purely for testing purposes you understand. I didn't detect any wrinkled noses as I wafted past sock test dummies (my feet were washed daily by the way).

Corrymoor deserve a pat on the back for making online purchasing so easy and for such swift delivery. I now have four pairs but I need a slap on the head for going for one pair in Old Gold.

Spoilt For Choice

2010-06-13T21:08:00.006+01:00

The toss of a coin decided my weekend; dutifully north to Newark to buy spares for my campervan, temptingly south to Complete Outdoors in Hemel Hempstead where I could check out their excellent selection of Paramo gear, or simply east to Thetford Forest for walks with Holly, my Border Terrier who will be 11 tomorrow. Hemel won both flips, at which point I wished I had said "Best of three" because I wanted Thetford Forest to win.

Arriving in Hemel, I couldn't resist the silky charms of a Paramo Adventure Light Smock and easily convinced myself that the Brasher Supalite II GTX boots had to be mine because my older version of Brasher Supalite GTX's need resoling - I'm going to send them to LSR for repair. With campervan and debit card groaning I made it back home with my treasures and daydreamed of backpacking whilst I did some tentwork (tentwork as in housework).

Last year's Shangri-La 1 and this year's Terra Nova Laser Competition have been aired.

My waterproof Montane Litespeed Jacket and Featherlite Trousers have been washed and reproofed. It's not something I've done before so I'm keen to feel the results.

Now I need to flip the coin again to decide which tent and waterproofs to take on my next outing.

Missing the Walking and Blogging

2010-05-31T06:59:00.005+01:00

Work and jobs around the house and garden have claimed most of my time of late. So there's been little time left for walking other than to and from work, and with my dog mornings and evenings. Somehow I have to find the time for the gym and bike rides. Falling behind in those respects, I find myself, at the same time looking forward to and worrying about my forthcoming challenging summer holiday.

Situation normal for the working man I guess. However, things will be different next year. This time then I will have retired and expect to have more time for proper walks.

In the meantime though, my plans are for a long weekend away next month, a week in the Lake District in July, and then two weeks on (Wainwright's) Coast to Coast in August - with Number 1 Son, Bryn, joining me for the second week.

A bike ride today - definitely. After I: post this blog, breakfast, take Holly for a walk, cut the grass; tend to the potatoes, onions, garlic, swede, carrots, salad leaves and sew some corriander; harvest some mint and rhubarb (make sauce with the former and crumble with the latter), some housework, watch the box (a Nigel Kennedy recording again - his truly excellent and captivating concert with The Polish Chamber Orchestra) and a bit of C2C day dreaming and planning.

Just as well I stayed at home for the Bank Holiday.

Jeepers Peepers

2010-04-16T06:34:00.003+01:00

My blog is a platform for wittering about walking and subjects related to it but today I divert your attention to another matter; an update on my peepers - eyes.

I mentioned them in November last year following an operation to have a cataract removed from my right eye. That was a great success and a revelation. It was like having a curtain drawn to give a clear view from that eye. However, my vision was still impaired by a cataract forming in the left eye. So my name was placed on a waiting list for an operation to resolve that issue.

The operation was successfully carried out on Wednesday. Vision through that eye is still slightly blurred but the indications are that when it settles down it will be as good as the other one.

It's all good news, as it seems likely that I won't have to wear spectacles full-time from now on; just when reading - or consulting a map.

Gyp tackles LEJOG

2010-04-07T06:20:00.005+01:00

I do love to follow Land's End to John o'Groats Walk blogs.

Here's another brave adventurer who plans to set off on 14th April with his dog Gyp. Good luck to you both ...

Lake District - Friday 25th later

2010-03-26T22:39:00.004Z

A walk up to the top of Black Combe and back marked the end of my walking week this morning. I parked at a small layby (space for three cars) on the A595 next to Whicham Church.

I'm keen to head south now to join family for a while before returning home by Monday.

Lake District - Friday 25th

2010-03-26T11:43:00.001Z

Black Combe at 11:11 hours. In the clouds.

Lake District - Thursday 25th

2010-03-26T06:15:00.003Z

The underlying reason for being here this week is to work my legs as part of preparations for a tough walk in the summer, and indeed, that is what I am doing. And yet, if truth be told, I realised today that I wasn't entirely at peace with the way I have been going about it. Everything became chrystal clear on my second pint of Jennings Cumberland Ale this evening.

I'd kitted myself out over the winter with a lightweight backpack to sustain me on a trek but it wasn't going to be fully deployed on this outing. I'm a day walker this week who returns to his home on wheels with all mod cons nearby; not the sturdy, independent nomad. No, he's a few more walks away yet. But his mind is a bit lighter now. A lighter rest of me will only result from more physical means and that is what your not-so-independent-occasional-commuting-coastal-day-walker was about today.

The walk was 7 miles/11km with 650ft/200 metres ascent. I know that because it says so in a pamphlet that I purchased "Walks - The Western Lakes".

The route starts at Boot and passes two small tarns; Blea Tarn and Siney Tarn. Boot is near Dalegarth Station at the head of the narrow-gauge Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway line so I could have made the journey to and from the start area by train. I drove though - no complaints but I've had enough of trains this week. Although I always stop, stare, listen and admire those choo choos whenever they pass by. Someone (not the same one) always waves a greeting from those trains. At least I think it's a greeting 'cos I always wave back.

Lake District - Wednesday 24th night.

2010-03-24T21:55:00.004Z

Today's earlier blogs were a bit of an experiment - using the camera. Outdoor conditions weren't what you might call condusive to such activities, however, apart from the evening picture disappearing into the ether it seemed to work.

I had half planned to camp wild tonight but with the odd thing going wrong I decided not to.

Next month I'll be trying out Memory Map so hope to be able to show (and measure) routes. In the meantime here's a brief description of today's:

From Ravenglass (Map OL6) generally NE by footpath (FP) to and then along a short section of A595. Then generally NE on FP over Muncaster Fell (playing silly beggars off route practising navigation) to pub east of Eskdale Green.

Disheartened to find pub shown on map (King George IV) closed and up for sale, so no hot soup and pint.

Continued SE (hungrily) along the road (up Birker Fell) heading for Devoke Water but wasn't enjoying that because of other water falling out of the sky and turned back down to Forge House. From there, generally SW on bridleway (BW) to Muncaster Tarn and the BW (Fell Road) and back to Ravenglass.

PS. Thanks for your comments Alan, Martin. My comments box giving me a hard time so hope you can make do with route description above!

Lake District - Wednesday 24th evening

2010-03-24T18:39:00.002Z

A good day's walking over, around and near Muncaster Fell.

Lake District - Wednesday 24th afternoon

2010-03-24T13:58:00.001Z

Eskdale Trail. My take on Zulu: "The sentry reports logs Sir. Tharsands of them, to the south!"

Lake District - Wednesday 24th morning

2010-03-24T10:39:00.003Z

Muncaster Fell from Hooker Crag where it is quite drafty.

Lake District - Tuesday 23rd

2010-03-24T05:05:00.002Z

Cumbria Coastal Way - St Bees to Whitehaven (6.5+ miles)

I returned to St Bees by train this morning to pick up where I left off yesterday. The aim was to check out the start of The Coast to Coast Walk and then to have a wander around Whitehaven.

The Cumbria Coastal Way continues and the Coast to Coast starts with a short, steep climb out of St Bees, then, after a while, the path drops close to sea level again - the way coastal paths do. On a fine day, with the wind behind me and a calm sea lapping gently against the cliffs on the seaward side far below, yet squalls visible out to sea, it was plain sailing (see how easily your scribe lapses into the vernacular; using coastal path walker words - words wot matelots nicked from us). And so, in no particular rush, there was plenty of time to stop and admire the view - water.

The Coast to Coast turns inland from the north side of a working quarry. My mind settled that getting away from St Bees in August should be straight forward, and finding that junction will be simple, I continued north on this trip along an occasionally precarious cliff top path to Whitehaven.

After a good look around the town, which looks fairly healthy and prosperous compared with some nowadays, and after a bit of shopping, it was mission complete so I was back on tne train - a coastal walking commuter - briefly; I go fell walking tomorrow.

Lake District - Monday 22nd

2010-03-23T07:44:00.003Z

Cumbria Coastal Way - Ravenglass to St Bees (14+ miles)

If all today's good bits were entered into a competition then the outright winner would be my Brasher Superlite GTX boots. They kept my feet dry, cushioned and comfortable over, in and under most surface conditions that could be encountered. No hotspots, sores or worse. And I never felt the need to rest awhile to air my feet with boots off - almost a routine on other walks with other boots.

The Cumbria Coastal Way heads inland north of Ravenglass and at other points along its course. The route, when it is on the beach, is over large pebbles when the tide is coming in so it's hard work. It was almost high tide as I approached Nethertown where I was forced to scamble over large boulders coming a cropper several times, falling on the slippery rock. The final couple of miles were along country roads during a brief sunny spell which raised my spirts and dried me out.

St Bees wouldn't win any prizes judged on my first impressions of it. It looked grim when compared with its counterpart Robin Hood's Bay at the other end of The Coast to Coast Walk which I aim to complete in the Summer. The unkempt railway stations didn't impress me either but the train ride back to Ravenglass did - after a 7+ hour walk (stopping for a pot of tea at Seascale), I was returned in 30 minutes.

Lake District - Sunday 21st

2010-03-21T20:34:00.002Z

Ravenglass - my base for the next couple of days, or longer perhaps, at the start of a week in the Lake District.

Arriving in time for an early lunch, I then worked up an appetite and thirst this afternoon with a preprandial low level walk and have now retired for an early night (in the Grampavan) with said appetite satisfied and thirst quenched.

This is a good place to be,especially for those with elderly legs; it's at sea level.

More of the same tomorrow as I head up the coast and back. Then onward and upward. Muncaster Fell beckons.

Cumbria Bound

2010-03-09T05:53:00.004Z

It’s a grand feeling to have a holiday to look forward to - especially when it’s one where, with a pack on your back and some money in your pocket you’ll be self-contained so that, within reason, you will have the freedom to wander. And so it is for me; I have a week off at the end of the month when I’ll be Cumbria bound.

Two weeks before departure, I packed last night and my backpack weighed in at less than 20lbs. That weight includes food and water allowing 14oz/400g for snacks. So I’m feeling pretty chuffed about that too.

New items in my wintry/springy luggage include: the Terra Nova Laser Competition tent which I (easily) erected in the garden for the first time at the weekend; the Terra Nova Laser Groundsheet Protector which Terra Nova list as 170g but which my scales record as 130g (A sweet shop in Bedford confirmed that weight for me on their scales after I had bought a quarter of their Edinburgh Rock) so, for peace of mind, I have to check that out with Terra Nova; and a posh new Paramo Cascada jacket which I hope will keep me dry. The long range weather forecast for the Lake District the week that I will be there is “quite wet and windy”. Surprise, surprise!

Yes. It’s a grand feeling.

4 Million Steps

2010-02-18T06:19:00.002Z

Extra physical exercise in preparation for my Coast to Coast trek has only really consisted of the odd walk to and from work so far this year. Lazily, I have found reasons to avoid the gym and swimming pool; “It’s school half term so I’ll be fighting for space in the pool.” is this week’s pathetic excuse. Next week though - for sure!

Earlier excuses have included the cold weather – mind you, it has been a memorably cold winter. I’m shamed though when I read about others who aren’t put off by the elements. One such is Chris Wilkinson who took the first of his 4 million steps this week when he set off on his walk around the English coastline. I love it when I can follow someone else’s adventure as part of my daily routine and he, for me, is the first of the season.

Good luck Chris, and thanks. You’ve given me the necessary shove in the right direction and a reminder that I need to get busy in the gym and pool.

Coast to Coast

2010-01-27T06:12:00.002Z

St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay. It’s settled – my backpacking aim this year is to walk the Coast to Coast during two weeks in August.

I feel as if it is settled because Bernice & Arthur (Sister & Brother-in-Law) will look after Holly, my dog, whilst I am away. Holly wouldn’t be able to manage the daily distances that I aim to cover so, already, it gives me great peace of mind to know that she’ll be so very well looked after during my absence.

If settled means that the soul is ready then there is still the matter of the body. That needs some work on it. I’ve put on some of the weight that I shed last year and I’m just not ready yet to make the sacrifices necessary to lose it again. It has been and remains an exceptionally cold winter so I’ve made up my mind that I need the blubber to help keep me warm. [Prodnose: “Excuses! Excuses!” “You’re greed ...” I interrupt: “Enough!”] Porridge, hearty casseroles and hot pots, thick winter soups, seconds of roast beef with Yorkshire puddings and steaming gravy, rhubarb crumble with custard and cream are the order of the day. Salads and smaller portions? Laters!

There’s some kit to sort out too. My plan is to camp out for 11 nights of the 14/15 day trek so I’ve decided upon a new tent - the Terra Nova Laser Competition – 2009 version. Terra Nova has confirmed by e-mail that the “2009 model is the latest version of the Laser Competition which has the reflective guys and cordlocks. There are no major plans to amend this tent design in the near future.”

August is good; it’s a holiday period that fits in with work and it leaves plenty of time for preparations which will include some shorter walks when the milder weather returns. Time too for a few more proper dinners.

All's Well That Ends Well ...

2009-12-31T17:33:00.008Z

... in the context of: We have few concerns if things turn out well in the end. Perhaps that was William Shakespeare’s point too. [Methinks - on 3/1/10: That a natural law of nature was at work here - That one's point of view is inversely proportionate to the measures of brandy consumed, as long as the temperature remains constant.]

31st December – a magical date. And a day this year when I can claim that 2009 has been good to me overall. The backpacking highlights include walking The Cumbria Way and then walking part of The Cleveland Way with my son Bryn. Next year I aim to walk The Coast to Coast during two weeks of the Summer. Shortly before that I plan to complete my fitness training with 5 days backpacking – in Wales possibly.

I cannot end the year without mentioning Alan Sloman. I didn’t see his name in the New Years Honours list (for outstanding achievement and service to walkers – by way of encouragement to others etc). So I will include him in my Honours List. And I should like to wish him and everyone else that reads this occasional blog a very Happy New Year.

My training for the Coast to Coast starts tomorrow. Or possibly the day after.

Cheers .....

Pick Up Thy Map And Walk

2009-11-24T23:47:00.002Z

Map reading has been a particular challenge for me this year but recent events will make it easier in the future. Things are looking good - quite literally.

A couple of years ago I was diagnosed as having a cataract in my right eye. I was informed that vision in that eye would gradually deteriorate and increasingly be affected by glare. I had all of that. The symptoms were exacerbated by the need for a new prescription for my spectacles. An eye test for new specs would have to wait though until after the surgery which would eventually be required to remove the cataract.

As with any surgery there is a risk so the quack makes a judgement, balancing the risk attached to the surgery and the worsening state of the cataract. My name was eventually entered on to The Waiting List four months ago, I had the surgery one month ago and today I was given the all clear. Truly, it was a wonderful thing – within hours of the surgery I could see clearly again through that eye. I will still need spectacles (although a lesser prescription and I’m finding not all of the time) but post-operation it’s as if a curtain has been drawn.

At the pre-operation check up a few months ago I was informed that a cataract was forming in the left eye which rather took the shine off my good news because I expected a 2–3 year delay before it would be dealt with. Vision is already significantly blurred. However, today my name was placed on The Waiting List so I can now expect an operation in 2-3 months to draw back that curtain.

The magnifying glass, which I have been carrying, and which I hadn’t declared on my kit list, is now confined to my desk drawer - redundant.

Brasher Supalite GTX

2009-11-10T06:14:00.008Z

Boots (footwear, not the chemist) have been on my mind as well as on and off my feet for a while now. Brasher Supalite GTX boots to be precise.

Although they are probably the most comfortable boots that I’ve ever worn, I’m cautious about giving them the five stars that they may well deserve just yet. I wore them on my recent trip to the Peak District and have been wearing them locally on walks of up to 6 miles but that hasn’t demanded much of them. I was almost as pleased with my North Face Hedgehog GTX XCR’s when first wearing them but that verdict turned out to be a bit previous. At less than a year old and without any real workouts the one on the left foot lets water in now. Judging by the reviews I have read then I was probably unlucky and my Hedgehogs weren’t quite right when I bought them.

The Brasher Supalites are just that – super light and very comfy. My size 10s weigh in at 1220 grams (2lbs 11oz). They look, well, errr, normal or near traditional perhaps - boring even. But the spongy feel with each step is just what the soles of my feet, which are prone to soreness, need.

I’ll reserve judgment until after my next backpacking long distance walk. I don’t know when that will be but that’s been on mind a lot recently too.

The Peak District - Sunday

2009-10-26T07:45:00.039Z

It was a peaceful drive home. Most people still in bed presumably, on a clear, dry day with the sun dazzlingly low on the horizon. I was content to have had an enjoyable short break away from home. There had been a couple of surprises too – The Pennine Bridleway being the main one.

I'm prejudiced. It’s the sort of route that I would avoid, especially so given the statement in a National Trail website that it is a “purpose-built long distance bridleway for horse riders, mountain bikers and walkers”. I don’t see how it can be considered “purpose-built” if it makes use of existing highways. Admittedly, I’m splitting hairs, and I accept that some footpaths may have been converted for other users, but the implication is that it was built for horse riders, mountain bikers and walkers – in that order; sufficient to ward me off.

That's because, regrettably, some mountain bikers bring out the Grumpy Old Man in me. It’s hardly relaxing walking a path with the threat of one or more cyclists bearing down on you at speed. I could go on, but I won’t, other than to say that I suspect few cyclists are aware that (as well as it being good manners and a safety issue) in law, they can only use a bridleway provided that they give way to walkers and horse-riders. Rant over, as they say.

There was no need for a rant in this case anyway because there were no cyclists on the sections of The Pennine Bridleway that I walked. None on the Monsal Trail either although I’m sure that that route would attract many, quite rightly, in finer weather.

The Monsal Trail - Chee Dale

In fact there was hardly anyone around at all, which was the other surprise to add to that of my enjoyment of The Pennine Bridleway. It was almost exclusively just me and Holly. I hope it wasn’t because it had been put about that a Grumpy Old Man was visiting the area.

The Peak District - Saturday

2009-10-24T21:48:00.004+01:00

Holly was reluctant to leave the pub this evening, or rather, once out she wanted back in again. It was blowing a gale with lots of water in it. I was of the same mind as her but it was time to go and our campsite was a 20 minute walk away.

You'll not want to hear about the weather but it has dominated the day so I have to mention it. It's been all kinds of wet.

Despite that, my thoughts while walking today have revolved around the potential for a long distance walk through this area. It's beautiful walkng country. I'll need a more suitable tent though so I was thinking about that too.

"Footpath" beside/in the River Wye

Tonight however, given the weather, it was a comfort when leaving the pub to know that we were walking back to a campervan rather than a small tent.

The Peak District - Friday

2009-10-23T20:58:00.009+01:00

In my youth, someone enquiring where another was going, may well have been told "There and back to see how far it is!" It was a gentle way of saying "Mind your own business!". Today though, "There and back to see how far it is." would almost be the right answer; I wanted to know if The Peak District was within a satisfactory range for a weekend of walks. At 130 miles (under 3 hours) from door to campsite gate, it is.

From what I've seen so far it's well worth the drive too. I'm in limestone country and it's lovely.

The Pennine Bridleway - Chee Dale

Following Holly's wagging tail, I've wandered along parts of The Pennine Bridleway, The Monsal Trail and The Limestone Way. More of the same tomorrow.

The Waterloo - where I'd recommend the Robinson's Wags and Witches

The Peak District Tomorrow

2009-10-22T06:09:00.013+01:00

Googling last week, my computer mouse whisked me away to The Peak District. I was dreaming in cyber land rather than walking over land because I couldn’t afford the time to get away. A pity really, and frustrating given the fine weather recently. The weather is on the turn now but so is my luck – I’m off to Derbyshire tomorrow.

It’s just for the weekend but that will suffice to contain a couple of circular walks each followed by dinner and drinks in a pub. If the weather forecast is to be believed, then it may be a bit damp. However, I’ll be living in comfort – meet the Grampavan:

The Grampavan

She (I know a Grampavan shouldn’t be a she but “she” is what I think of her as despite my Granddaughter Tara coming up with “Grampavan”) is an elderly VW T4 Campervan who found her way to me via eBay. This weekend she can park, and hook up to the electric, at a campsite between Buxton and Bakewell for £10.00 per night which will allow me some of the overnight comforts of home.

Back to the maps and googling in the meantime – where to walk ....

Norfolk Weekend - Sunday

2009-09-13T22:11:00.008+01:00

Last night, when the chap in the pub asked me if he could give Holly his leftover piece of steak I said "Yes, of course!" when I meant the exact opposite. In the split second in which I had to decide, I didn't know how to say "No thanks" without sounding mean, or how to explain why not without seeming to be churlish.

Entering the pub a short while before, I'd scanned the plates of those dining in order to get an idea of the quality of food. The table next to the chap with the steak was free so when I sat down there I could see more clearly what he was eating and I didn't like the look of it. That wasn't my reason for wanting to decline his offer though.

It wasn't the unappealing thought of Holly eating off the carpet that she was stretched out on either, nor was it about her learning bad habits. It was more about what she might do with the offering given her behaviour earlier when I had presented her with a scrap of my treasured crab meat. As far as she was concerned crab meat was just dead fish. And the best thing to do with dead fish is to roll in it, which she did. She didn't want to waste the stuff by eating it. As it turned out, Holly wasn't interested in the steak (or about hurting anyone's feelings). She sniffed and looked the other way. One of the other dogs in the pub was not so fussy though.

No real losers then, plus I was very happy with my Adnams Bitter.

We are home now after a morning spent wandering along the beach towards Sheringham. We had the shore to ourselves for the most part with Holly happy to be splashing about in the cold sea water. My thoughts were tinged with a little sadness and remorse though, reflecting that since yesterday there was one less crab in it.

Norfolk Weekend - Saturday

2009-09-12T18:04:00.003+01:00

Fresh crab meat had been on my mind for a while. Since last month in fact, when walkng through Whitby. Now though, I can happily report that said crab meat is off my mind and in my stomach. One unlucky creature having been consumed earlier today in Cromer, Norfolk.

Holly leading the way to Cromer Pier

We - that's me and my dog Holly - are camping midway between Sheringham and Cromer where the balmy peacefulness of a glorious late Summer evening is breaking as fellow campers stir ino life following their afternoon siesta. Thoughts of food no doubt on their minds now as they make plans for the evening.

Holly doesn't know it yet but we head down the coast again shortly. Not as far as Cromer this time though. My appetite for crab meat and a coastal walk has been satisfied. The pint or two of bitter that I now have in mind are closer to hand.

Computerless

2009-09-06T05:50:00.003+01:00

The proposed Bank Holiday Weekend coastal walk didn’t come off. Events and a shortage of time conspired to keep us at home. There hasn’t been time this weekend either mainly because jobs at home have to take priority. So the proposal is still on my To Do List.

My computer died on the Bank Holiday Weekend. Recently upgraded with a new power supply, increased RAM and an extra hard drive it was bad timing at the very least for it to conk out. No amount of tickling its insides would produce anything more that spinning fans. The predicament was which to replace - the remaining old bits of the PC or the whole computer. After much deliberation I decided, reluctantly, that I would have to fork out for a new one and here I am back on-line at last.

I would never have believed just how much I have come to depend on a computer at home and how much I would miss it when one wasn’t available. I was a lost soul – backpackless in the dark. Normal service is returned now though. I just have to get on top of the garden and housework.

Teaching Old Dogs New Tricks

2009-08-24T15:01:00.009+01:00

Holly, my dog, is a sprinter rather than a long distance walker. That’s just fine for what she wants to do - a swift burst to chase a squirrel or a rabbit. It’s not ideal for me though. I would like her to accompany me on long walks. Indeed, that was the main reason for getting her in the first place. However, Holly has never shown an aptitude for that.

Holly

She’s a Border Terrier, a type of dog originally bred to kill foxes and vermin with breed characteristics nowadays which seemed right for my purpose when choosing her ten years ago. She loves to be out and about but not long out and abouts. In hot weather she seeks the shade and shows how stubborn she can be with her “On yer bike!” look. Understandable really, given that she like all Border Terriers has two coats. It’s not such a problem in the cold. And “wet” is ok, so long as she can choose when, and then only, if she can sit in it. A muddy pond, chrystal clear river or salty sea - it doesn't matter. Just cold and wet.

I don’t believe the old adage that you can’t teach old dogs new tricks. I might agree that it can prove difficult to change old tricks and break old habits but it seems to me that new tricks can be learned at any age. It’s time to put Holly to the test.

If it’s a typically cool Bank Holiday weekend this coming weekend then I hope to go camping with her. A short coastal walk appeals to me, where compromise is the order of the day. She can cool down in the water when she wants, allowing me to take a break and read my book. Beaches tend to be squirrel free too.

The Cleveland Way - After

2009-08-17T07:03:00.015+01:00

The benefit of a holiday is that it's a break from a general routine. On the sixth day of a walking holiday I was into another (more desirable) one. I was almost fit enough in health and spirit for more weeks of it. Alas, one week was all that I/we had time for.

My preparations for this walk began in March and they paid off. One knee is still weak but no longer painful. There were no blisters on this walk. The soles of my feet are still an issue but less so. They ache after an hour or so of walking but it is an "ache" rather than pain, and easily remedied with a short halt or the occasional longer stop with boots and socks off. I'm more than hopeful that more weight loss plus another appointment with the podiatrist and the osteopath will bring further improvement.

I was very pleased with the kit except for the sleeping bag and perhaps the boots (See my kit list and previous posts for details). The sleeping bag was warm but I realise now that I need a more spacious bag for a comfortable nights sleep. The boots look and feel good but I am going to try another type for comparison.

It didn't feel as if we had "roughed it" on our holiday. It was a pleasure to camp out in the good weather that we had. The overnight rain whilst we camped at Cote Ghyll camp site, Osmotherley was not a problem but the site was and the midges that live there made it an unpleasant experience. The staff were disorganised and unhelpful, the site is cramped and muddy. There is one decent toilet block and another not so decent. I wouldn't use that site again. I suspect that some of the other campers who I saw, and certainly those that I spoke to, won't either.

Garbutt Farm, Sutton Bank was at the other end of the scale; it is an outstanding Bed & Breakfast. The accomodation is luxurious and the breakfast excellent. Our vehicle was parked there whilst we were away. It's almost on The Cleveland Way, within easy walking distance of a pub and a bus stop for The Moors Bus Service - a service which we used to return from Scarborough and collect our van.

I owe a debt of gratitude to the many (including ourselves) that wished us luck - we received it and used some to good effect. Special gratitude is due to Alan Sloman - a walker extraordinaire, reluctant gear freak and altogether nice guy who gave us such good advice and encouragement. Thank you Alan. I'd like to thank Bryn too, for being such a good son and the perfect companion on The Cleveland Way 2009. And very well done! Clambering up big hills whilst texting - amazing.

The Cleveland Way - Day 6

2009-08-12T20:55:00.004+01:00

11 August 2009

Robin Hood's Bay to Scarborough - 15 miles

For both of us, this is the best coastal section of The Cleveland Way. A number of factors combine to make it so. We are fitter now so negotiating the couple of steep climbs before and the long haul over, Ravenscar to the half way point at Hayburn Wyke is not difficult. The route is clear so no need for stops to consult a map. The path surface is easy on the feet and the views are far reaching, especially today with the fine weather. In all, We can direct our attention to each other and our surroundings.

Looking back (North) from Ravenscar

In clear weather, Scarborough can be identified early on - it's castle a dominant feature on the skyline. As we crossed the bridge at Scalby Mill, on to the Promenade, it was as if we had become the tourist attraction; two sunburnt hikers out of place next to the sandy beach.

This is the end of our journey and this has been a brief account of it along with a few of my thoughts. We, of course, know the full story and will keep it in memory for a long time to come.

When I get back to my computer (Sunday) I'll write a final piece, edit where necessary and add some photos. I think I'll be ready to start planning my next walk then.

The Cleveland Way - Day 5

2009-08-11T05:18:00.005+01:00

10 August 2009

Runswick Bay to Robin Hood's Bay - 15.5 miles

Walking around Whitby at lunchtime was more about avoiding others than searching for that crab sandwich I had thought about the evening before. The place was heaving. Even in the rain. I could feel myself getting grumpy so it was a relief to make our way up the famous 199 steps to the Abbey and then to the open space beyond. The crab sandwich proved to be as elusive to us as did the creatures themselves to the children dangling bait in the harbour, and presumably to the crab fishermen. Fresh crab was off the menu.

What was on today's menu as it were, was rain which slackened to drizzly showers by the time we reached Robin Hood's Bay. It was refreshing though. After the hot weather we have had up till now, Bryn and I were agreed that the change was a welcome one.

I'd be happy for it to change back again tomorrow though.

Robin Hood's Bay

The Cleveland Way - Day 4

2009-08-10T09:19:00.004+01:00

9 August 2009

Saltburn to Runswick Bay - 12.5 miles

A change of plan today to resolve a problem; a joint unshakeable craving for a plate of Fresh Whitby Haddock with chips, mushy peas and bread & butter (you know - the thin sliced white bread with the warm butter that might well have been applied with a paint brush).

On our schedule, we would walk through Whitby tomorrow lunchtime. However, ours would be a meal to linger over (queue for too most likely). Not fast food to be consumed in the middle of a 15 mile walk.

So, 20 minutes after arriving Runswick Bay, parched and desperate for the aforesaid fish and chips, we were on a bus, Whitby bound, salivating.

I have to tell you, that this evening, we ate the most delicious Haddock & Chips that you could wish for.

Trenchers Fish Restaurant - Whitby

We bus back to Runswick Bay in the morning where we continue our journey south which will bring us through Whitby again. Whitby Crab sandwich and a pint of bitter for lunch methinks.

The Cleveland Way - Day 3

2009-08-09T06:27:00.004+01:00

8 August 2009

Battersby Moor to Saltburn - 17 miles

Coffee in bed this morning. With fresh milk too! Bryn had secretly carried a pint of it as a surpise treat. There was plenty left over to mix with our porridge before we set off this morning as well.

There was no rush to leave as we were hoping to arrive in Kildale to find the village shop open on arrival. It wasn't but we didn't have long to wait. Then, with more water and a few snacks on board we were off on an already very hot day.

There were a lot of other walkers around today. Remarkable, I thought, to see whole families including young children on such long walks, and refreshingly nice to have friendly conversations with others along our way.

Highcliff Nab - Overlooking Guisborough with the North Sea in the distance

We are in a B&B now after a good days walk on another hot dry day. Washed, laundry done, fed and watered, and looking forward, after a good night's rest, to the start of our walk down the coast tomorrow.